Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Next I took my time and created cardboard templates that fit inside the ribs snug and marke the lcoation of 1/4 square spruce rails that the servo will attach to. Make sure to let the template run to the front and flush against the sheer web... The more gluing contact the better. The 2nd template has to be a little longer as the rails fall further down the rib.

The rails and rib doublers are only .4 oz per bay...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I then created balsa doublers along the top of each ply doubler to allow the sheeting something to lie on...

Then the assembly is epoxied into the wing... using liberal amounts of 30 minute eopxy... the rib doublers are placed first then the rails. I had to cut the 1/4" squares out of the larger rib to allow the rails to poke into it far enough to allow the other end to slip under the cap strip of the other side.

This is done prior to mixing up the epoxy.

So the two rib doublers are laid in place with epoxy, both ends of the rail have epoxy applied, the end of the rail is slid though the long ribs 1/4" holes far enough to allow the other end to slide into it's notch... then all the joints get a little epoxy added with a toothpick to make sure there's a good bond all over.

I also forgot to take a pic of ledges I glued to the front and back of the open bay... to give the sheeting something to lay on and glue to.

The sheeting it cut from the paper template we made earlier and shaped with a sanding block til it fits nicely... Thick CA is applied to the ledges of the bay and the sheeting laid in place... it's held to the curve with pins. Don't pin it and then drizzle thin CA over the seams to hold, as you may need to sand the seams a little to make them flush.

One you've lightly sanded the seams... THEN drizzle a little thin CA in the seams.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Using the template we made earlier... we mark anc utout the servo opening.

Notice the modified lines... I forgot to allow for the balsa doubler thickness and had to adjust the template to miss it. I bascially moved it over about 1/8"

Two scraps are glued along the undersides of the servo openign sides to strengthen it. The sheeting is cross grain there, so cut the strips longitudinally.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Then we replace the covering and cover the seams with 1/2" wide strips of white Ultracote. When I get my hands on some red to match, I'll replace the red square that had the original servo bay cutout of it.

Time to consider a new hardpoint for the control horn. The supplied horns are 6-32 thread... O.K. since we had two servos.. but I wouldn't trust it to one servo... so I will replace with a DuBro HD control horn that uses 8-32 bolts...

In the second pic you can see where I've outlined the front end of the open bay... and note I peeled back the red square a little.

The green line that is right on the control horn is the location of the control horn... it is basically `even with the side of the servo case. I like to setup my servo linkage that way... At neutral, the linage is slightly canted... but at full deflection they are at 90 degrees to the hingeline... (just a preference really)

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Then we cut part of the bay open... again with the seams on the cap strips for easy reattachment.

We see the hinge block, but not much else to work with. So I filled in both sides of the block (and a sliver above) with balsa epoxied in place.

Then glued another block across it all. I had to drill a hole in it to allow for the hinge.

Now I have plenty meat to control this mondo aileron with.

And lastly we iron the covering back in place. and install our control horn.

I'll have to cut the hron shorter and redrill to place the axis over the hingeline as well as get 2.5" cbolts to use... the supplied 2" DuBro bolts are to short for the VERY thick ailerons on this bad boy.

That's it... repeat on the second wing...

Even though I added AT MOST 2 oz of weight for these new servo locations... I saves 1/2 ounce from the single control horn over the supplied dual horns... eliminated another oz of extensions, 1 oz of servo matchers... and of course... two 2 oz servos with horns and linkage.

So I saved at LEAST 4 oz with this mod and reduced the complexity of setup.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Oh... I did start to remove some belly balsa but found mine to be quite light... after 6 "bays" I only weighed the removed pieces at .2 oz... I would only save approx. .75 oz to cut them all out... and it just isn't worth that... and I'd rather have the smooth belly and stronger fuse for it.


At 17.5 lbs this is going to be a really nice aircraft wiht a DA50 and 23x8 X prop... I could probably save another 1/4 lb by going to lipolies and a few other really anal things... but at this point... I'm completely satisfied with the outcome.

not everyone will want to do these mods... but those that do, will be greatly rewarded with an excellent result in performance and wingloading.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Dave, get rid of the dubro tires and get some DB foam tires, You'll save about 1/4 pound. Just keep it up off the tires when not in use. They get flat spots. I'm in the process of getting 24 feet of 8-32 titanium threaded rod. for all my future planes, Should save another oz with that per plane. the new titanium axles from TBM will save another oz

john

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Good suggestions... I'm not using DuBro tires though... Thought mine came with foam tires... very ligthweight... just a little over an OZ...

Yeah, I've been meaning to order some 8/32 all thread from Small Parts... wasn't aware of the titanium axles though... good stuff.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Oops, thought you were using Dubo tires. Hey, I might order 24 feet of 8-32 Titanium threaded rod at a very good price. Perfect for use with Rocket city/Nelson type hardware. I can re-sell it for 30 dollars plus shipping for 36 inches. I see small parts wants 46 dollars for the same thing. Let me know if your interested. If I get enough takers I'll make the purchase. I think it's a one time deal at this price. TBM has the titanium axles, the pair weigh .70 oz and don't use wheel collars. PSP makes them. Same company that makes the cowl binders.

John

Langster

Hi All,

Can you tell me where you installed the fuel filler and radio switches on the YAK? There does not appear to be much room near the cowl.

Thanks

Lang

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I put my fuel dot and ignition switch on the right side. The ign. switch is held in one of the Dubro switch mounts. Even then I had to cut the end of the mount off a little and angle the mount to get it where I wanted...



Hole the wing into place (putting the antiroation pins throuch their holes) and mark the location of the wing onto the fuse... this is your guide.

I put the receiver switch further back on the opposite side (but it's one of those small audio jack like switches that have a pin you insert to turn of the SmartFly regulator so it doesn' t need much room.

See pics:

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I should also mention that I flew the completed "ultra light" version of the Yak yesterday a few times...

I have the CF gear in place and the single aileron mod completed. I used ball-links on the HiTec HS-5955's and sealed the underside of the hingeline with clear Ultracote. I flew without a spinner as well, because, well... I didn't wanna have to put one on...

FLying weight was a TAD over 17.25 lbs... 17.5 with a CF or fiberglass spinner....

BRAND new DA50 engine with a BMEAircraft 22x8 prop...

Excellent performance... good 3D power... pulled out of a hover quite well... not a rocket but great. Harriers with a little wing rock (some CG tweaking will fix that I'm fairly confident) walls and elevators are really nice.

It couples noticably to the gear in knife edge with just a click of aileron coupling... but can be mixed out.

Set beside an EF 87" Yak... the EF fuse appears fatter due to the canopy, but the Lanier is a noticably larger aircraft. Longer, larger tail and wings... bigger nose...

Was it worth all the mods? Yes... IMHO... if you wanna fly this with a 50cc engine... these will provide you with a rock and roll combo... otherwise you'll be too heavy for the engine, but not the plane...

Or plop a 75-80cc engine in there and enjoy a super powerful IMAC machine.

With several more planes needing built and more on the way... I'm not sure I will keep mine long... so if someone is interested... contact me via PM...

Oh... and I expect the review up fairly soon...

Langster

Hi Maudib,

Thanks for your feedback. I will probably use standard switches but your locations were handy. I should be flying with my ZDZ 80rv in the next few weeks so I post some updates of flight performace. Like you say with an 80 and a bit heavier the Yak will be a nice IMAC style flyer which will suit me perfectly.

Cheers

Lang

Langster

One other thing,

My choke is at a fairly awkward angle on the firewall for servo activation, which i will use as the cut off. Any suggestions? A servo mounted on the firewall or a lever perhaps?

Thanks

Lang

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

try a bellcrank

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

With a dremel, grind the peened brass to remove the existing arm... then order you one of these carb linkages... you can roatae it until you have a more useful angle... I realize you are downunder... so you may prefer to try a bellcrank... yet those stock short "arms" allow VERY little leverage... and they can be a bear...

You can also drill and tap the peened brass for 2/56 or even 4/40 and screw an aluminum servo arm on it to extend it out a little... I do this on all my DA engine chokes... I also use a 2/56 screw and nut through the existing hole in the carb arm to attach the servo arm at a 2nd spot (so it won't slip).

Available from:

http://www.rcshowcase.com/html/acces...rblinkage.html

Langster

Hi Maudib,

Thanks for the tip.

I have just ordered the parts from the web address you provided and the gear is on the way.

It will be handy to adjust the linkage to where I want it to be!

Thanks

Lang

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

What is the TRUE CG Envlope for the Lanier Yak 54 .... the 3/8" is rediclus .... more or less like every thing about this airplane ... Never again BUBBA ... P.S. anyone know where I could get a 10" fiberglass cowl that will fit this plane, one I can prime paint and the gelcoat wont chip off if you touch it?????

pcsol

My Feedback: (2)

What’s with the negative waves Hound ?
I here you about the cowl but I have had the same issue on just about every arf I've bought. The assemblers never seem to put in the effort we would if we did it ourselves. But then we don’t have to paint twenty or thirty cowls a day..
As far as the CG goes I started at “7.25 and quickly moved back to “7.5 when I had troubles with a solid harrier. I think I’m actually right around “7.65 now and it will do all I ask of it. Harriers on the deck are comfortable and all other maneuvers are spot on.
There is obviously some over sensitivity being this far back with these large surfaces, but the size of these surfaces can also quickly get me out of any negative attitude that I get into.
This Yak has seen more of the field than any of my other birds this season (and I have a lot to choose from ! ). I hope if your having issue's with yours you can get them worked out and find the qualities that it has over some of the cookie cutter Yaks out there.

Langster

Maudib,

Nice review on RCU. A good video as well.. The comments on the review certainly match the flight performance with a 50 versus larger engine.

I liked the flat spins!

I am still a few weeks away from my first flight. I also have to get my Yak certified as its over 7kg. Once i do I'll post a video.

Cheers

Lang

pcsol

My Feedback: (2)

Dang it Lang ! Get a move on !

I stopped counting flights somewhere after fifty and I think I’m just about at the one hundredth anniversary. I still grab this bird over my others. Its not too big , and not too small. Its juuuuust right !
I’ve got the trimmed nailed now and have done more lightening (I pulled the smoke system to put in another plane) and there is nothing this plane will not do with a good
60 -70cc. And no more structural failures after replacing the gear mount.
What a bargain !

Langster

Hi pcsol,

Yeah I know the Yak is taking forever to get in the air! I am really looking forward to flying with the ZDZ80 though! I bought it new/second hand and ran it up on the Yak just last week, and once it was primed, the engine started first flick..Seemed to have plenty of horses for this size plane.

More updates and video ahead.

Cheers

Lang

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Review video is a funny thing... getting people available to video when the weather is good can be a pain. The video you see is actually the MAIDEN flight. I had several subsequent flights but neve could get my video ducks in a row.

I had later switched to CF gear and single aileron mod... and the loss of another 1/2 lb was noticable.... moreso in the power-to-weight attribute than flying.

I wasn't aware it was posted just yet (have been under the weather the past couple days)... but I am glad Lanier approved it. I think I pretty mucvh told it like it was, the good, bad and ugly...


(I notice some issues with labelin in the review... I'll have to fix that)

Glad you liked it... perhaps it aloing with this fine thread will allow those to make an informed buying decision, and properly outfit the aircraft. I really do think that for those willing to do the failry simple mods I outlined... can have a really nice 50cc aircraft... or better yet... have a pretty darn light 80cc aircraft that's insanely powered.

Langster

Well I have finally been able to determine my Yak weight after completing the plane yesterday. It is 9.3kg, or 20.46lb without fuel. I had a few things to correct that probably added weight which included one of the wing locators being broken out of the rib in transport to Australia and I accidentally crunched the engine cowl in the boot of my car which required some minor fiberglass repair. I ended up using HS-5955 servos for all surfaces apart from the throttle and choke.

I am just waiting for an opportunity to get to my field and do a thorough range check and get the ZDZ-80 running right.

Cheers

Lang

Bashedit

My Feedback: (35)

Finally finished mine and plan to wring it out a little this weekend. Took a long time to finish. Not because of the kit but because of the move from Ohio to Georgia! Weighed it yesterday, 20 lb-2 oz, with ZDZ80, Emcotec, 5945's all around.

Maudib, thanks for all your tips/mods, always makes building and flying easier!

Bashedit