hello im curily working on a giant profile right now
to power it im thinking the super tiger will be ok for a ceap project.
i know thers a lots of people that will disagree but iv seen one in a h9 extra 260 the guy sayed it hovered at 1/2 throttal so what is a good carb and muff to use on this motor.
is it any good.
does any one have experince with it.

Mine took a while to sort out. Once I got it how it was supposed to be and broken in it's a great engine. It starts with a single flip and pulls hard. I found the Zinger Pro 18x8 to be the best 3D prop for my application. I run Byron large Super Tigre fuel and a OS "F" plug.

David

I've had an ST 3250 for years - since they came out. I don't think the stock carbs are the best. Despite everything I've tried, I've always been plagued by rich midrange or idle problems. The metering definitely isn't optimum. This is why many people install the expensive O.S. 7D carbs (requires an adaptor sleeve) - they're a darned good carb! I've got one on my O.S. 1.08. The mounting flange (on the ST 2300/3000/3250) is 17mm in diameter and both Irvine 1.20/1.50 carbs fit, as well as the Moki carbs. There is of course the big Perry carb available too (I've got one as well). I've been running the Irvine carb on my ST2300 to check it out - seems to be an improvement. I ordered another Irvine carb and two Moki carbs from Paul at Just Engines in the UK. He says the Moki carb is the way to go, and it's a very reasonable price. He's got a few Moki reviews on his site, from very credible engine guys (Clarence Lee for example), and they all say this is a very good carb. For a muffler, I've been using a BCM Pitts style. Many people say that it doesn't have quite enough back pressure (openings on the exhaust tubes to large), but I think it's a nice muffler. The ends of the tubes are rolled pinched. Best to leave them that way if back pressure is an issue... more back pressure = more tank pressure = more fuel pressure to the carb goes the theory. Another weak point with these engines is the size of the fuel nipple on the carbs. They are the smallest diameter (for the engine size) of any manufacturer I've seen. Do yourself a favour and (remove it first) drill the nipple out to 1/16". Large diameter fuel tubing from the fuel tank clunk to the carb doesn't hurt either. Don't forget to ensure that the clunk hole (you can drill it to the same size as the large tubing) and the brass tubing passing through the stopper is the next bigger size up too. I've run Perry pumps to try to improve reliability. I think it helps. A hot plug like an O.S. "F" plug really helps, as well as useing a lower oil content fuel, like 10 or 12%. The big S.T.s don't like much nitro either. Try no or only 5% nitro. Note that these tips aren't just my opinion - they've been stated on the forums many times, and let's just say I've learned the hard way through operation... I'm sure looking forward to trying those Moki carbs out this next summer!

I have a ST3000 (3250 is an overbored 3000) on a Bisson Pitts style muffler in a 14 1/2 pound CAP and it'll hover it no problem, BUT, I had to go over to a Perry carb to cure the rich midrange problem. If you have a Chinese made ST you shouldn't have that problem cos they changed the ramp on the carb barrel. My Chinese ST G23 (1.40) throttles great and uses the same carb as the 3250.

Mine wouldn't hover on a 18x8 but a change to a 20x6 really bought this combo to life. It'll pull 20x10 no probs but if you're into 3D you'll need fine pitch. This motor is a torker so give it some prop to pull.

OS "F" plugs I've found are best but you can get some detonation if the motor gets a little lean (sounds like a bad rattle).

Contrary to everyone else on the planet I've been running 18% oil (half castor, half synthetic) and 5% nitro cos that's my standard fuel for everything and it's been fine, a whole season on it with no probs.

Hope this helps.

The 3250 is a great big cheap engine.
Mine ran great, didn't changed nothing.
I used 5% nitro and 18% castor oil, this was the best mix I found for it.
OS 8 plug and bisson pitts muffler gave me about 7800 rpm with 20x8 wood prop and that's was only at the half of the second gallon.
For your profile the best muffler is the bisson side type.

http://bissonmufflers.com/en/muffler...ting_id=114077

Flying Crazy,
I have had many of the ST big bores and agree with all of the above and would only add one thing.. These engines need patience !
So many of the issue's I have helped with on these engines are related to the operator getting fed up after just a couple of tanks of fuel and then telling everyone that these things are a piece of junk, with the usual "you get what you pay for" reply.
Nothing could be further from the truth. If the above rules are followed and you can put up with just a little tinkering to get things right, you will be rewarded with a very powerful and trusty motor for very little money. I wouldn't try all of these things at once either, one at a time until you get satisfaction. Tank location and distance from the motor is very important and will determine what you need to tune correctly. Then give it eight or ten tanks of fuel before trying to get it "spot on". These things just get better with time..
Good luck !