3dcrazy

Hey you guys I have a couple questions on my funtana. I am running a O.S 160 with a APC 18x6W and 15% fuel and I just maidened it today and it flew without any problems,I got to hover it in the second flight and it hovered under half with plenty of vertical power I am very pleased with the motor and power setup! but my questions are

1.when I was hovering it it had enough aliron to stop the roll but it took full aliron deflection and it was tough to get it and keep it in a hover at times, A pearson at the field was telling me that lowering the pitch of the prop would help with the spinning and free up the alirons so question is, is that true? and what size of prop do you recommened? he was thinking a 18x4W sound right?


2.the guy at the field was also telling me that if you have a enough tail weight, when you do a wall it should snap out to one direction. Now right now if you go about a quarter of a throttle and pull full up elevator it snaps into wall without dipping eaither wing tip is that the way it should be?



3.It does not do very good blenders are inverted flat spins it seems like the nose wants to drop, I was kind of expecting it to do this sense there is alot of weight in the nose. Does the plane need to be tail heavy to achieve these maunvers?



othere then thoughs things everything seems oky it does exclent waterfalls and very very good walls I have not tried a knife edge i am nervious that it will not do a good slow knife edge are not track very straight. This is my first glow pure 3d plane I have hade a couple of electrics but nothing this big before so I am kind of new to this need some helpful tips Will send pictures soon of it flying.

DMcQuinn

My Feedback: (13)

The best "wall" maneuver is such that no wing tip drops. You want the plane to rotate to the vertical and just stop there. SOunds like yours is doing this well. Generally a more "tail-heavy" plane will do all the 3d manuevers better than a nose heavy plane. The 18x4W apc prop may be a good combination. I don't have the OS 160. But again in general a flat pitch (low) prop tends to be better for precise hovering (lots of prop wash). Like a helicopter rotor - large diameter and low pitch. I ran a APC 18x6W on my Moki 180. I now have a Moki 210 and am running a APC 20x8 on my profile.
Moving some weight toward the tail may improve the blenders and flat spins. I move the CG rearward until the plane gets hard to fly. One symptom is that the elevator becomes very sensitive. You push the stick forward a little bit and the plane dives down and tends to tuck under. You pull back the stick and the nose pops and tends to stay up. In other words the plane will "hunt" in pitch control. Now you know you have gone far enough.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

did APC start making an 18x4W??

aerobatixkid

Not that I know of, a 18x6W is the preferred prop for this engine by 95% of the 3D flyers.

3dcrazy

I have gone to other forums and most of the people have been telling me that the APC 18x6W is the best choice so far, so I think I will leave the prop on there and as far as the blenders and waterfalls I might need to put more throttle in it as I enter the maunver. It has only hade 2 flights with the new motor on it so I have not really been pushing the throttle and pushing it to its full potiental yet I think I need to get more stick time on it before I really change anything, I am hoping with more flight time the hovering will become more easy and take less aliron as I get usto it and I might add a little bite more weight to the tail to help blenders and flat spins.

thankyou for the advice

more power

I also have a funtana . I know the manufactor calls for a 100 size engine but it will be under powered. so the first choice was a saito 120 and it flew well. the balance was perfect and all manuvers were crisp ,but i needed a lil more power on pull ups from a hover im running a 18x4 wide prop and the 4 stroke has the ability to spool up faster than the 160 2 stroke most if not all 3d type planes will perform better with a 4stroke than a 2 cycle .you need prop wash not speed over the control surface the OS 160 is a great moter but not the best choice for the funtana to do the type of flying that your doing , play with differant props and run 30% fuel you will see a differance , have fun

Sun

Hi,
about your CG

try to put it as far as 40% back from the nose. So caculate yourself and go back slowly and get used to it. If yours is noseheavy it wont fly 3D like it could.
I´m flying my Funnys in that way that I have to give Elevator down for landing when the tank is empty.

Try a 17 x 10 or even a 17 x 12, people here say that the reaction of the surfaces is better, because of the higher speed of the prop wash

What is the max deflection of your surfaces?

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

Hey everybody, I'm building me a new Funtana 90 and thougth I would share the build pictures and flying videos.

I will keep posting in this forum so keep checking back.






















Let me know what you think.

Later.

Van [8D]

PropHanging

Van,
What engine are you using in this one?

Spoiler

Hells bells! 30 % in a 160 2s, thats crazy. That motor has loads more power than your 120 on straight FAI fuel. My F90 with a Moki 135 and a 17x6 hovers at around 1/2 throttle and will climb out with authority and its being run in on straight 80/20!

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

Evolution 26 GT Gas Engine.


[8D]

PropHanging

Wow!

I'm waiting for the X 100 to come out, and was thinking about trying a gas engine on it. Let me know how that one works out for you.

Also, where do you fly out of?

PropHanging

WOW, I just realized how old this post was. Van, I'm surprised I got a response.

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

I have my own flying field.

PropHanging

Very nice.

I thought this was a very old posting, but then I realized I was looking at your join date. I need to get more sleep I guess.

That evo 26GT should be fantastic. Do you think you'll have to add much weight to get it to balance, or will you be able to move quite a bit back? It should help being able to mount the fuel at the CG, I'm sure.

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

I had to add 1oz at the tail to balance it out.


Was really amazed, thought I was going to have to add 10lbs the way the engine looks sticking out there.


There are videos on my website.


Van. [8D]

yaron_k

My Feedback: (45)

Hi all.
Had my Funtana 90 set up with a Saito 120S and an APC 16x6 prop (the 16-4W over speeds the engine). Yesterday, at my 7th flight which was still very moderate, at low control surfaced rate, my left-hand horizontal stab was torn off, along with the elevator.

It happened at straight and d leveled flight, at less than 50% throttle.

Is anybody familiar with such tendency of this plane? Prior to this mishap it flew marvelously, hovering effortlessly at less than 50% throttle.

Any comment will be welcomed.

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

I think in any larger 3D style plane with huge tail surfaces that are lightly constructed it's a wise investment to install tail wire bracing. I installed the Sullivan tail wire brace kit on my Funtana 90. I'm using a S.T. 2300 in mine and I'm flying it pretty hard.

yaron_k

My Feedback: (45)

Interesting approach. Can you post some pictures of your setup? I'm starting to rebuild mine, and wouldn't like to go through the "experiance" again

Thanks

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

Here's a pix for you. Note nylon clevises to avoid metal to metal induced RF interference.

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

And onother pix of the bottom.

yaron_k

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks. I'll implement the same solution
(once I repair the damage.....)

Yaron

tukkus

My Feedback: (2)

Daryl that's a nice addition to the covering with those colors.....do you have a pic of the plane with the wings on it? I'd like to see it all together.

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

tukkus, Here you go... Sure looks different from the stock clour scheme.