i buy a giles 202 140 cpm. i like begin with gasser engines.

what engine is the apropiate to this plane??

or is better the glow engine to this plane??

thank you

Hi...I have had one of these planes for 2 years and they fly fantastically!! your going to love it...

As for the engine..I use a Moki 1.35 glow engine, APC 18 x 6W and 0% Nitro...with unlimited vertical...a great combination....

A friend of mine also has one with an OS 1.60 wih similar performance to mine with the MOKI.

Hope it helps.

W

ingboy2,

If your looking for a small gasser the Brillelli 26cc or the 46cc would work. If your just a sport flyer and mild aerobatics the 26cc with a 16X8 or 17X6 prop would be fine. If your into 3D then you would want to go with the 46cc and it swings a 22X8 prop.

With a span of 72" and a wing area of only 960 squares--I'd put a glow engine on that plane with a Cline regulator and fly it.

It's a bit on the small side for a gas engine. Actually, it's a LOT on the small side for a gasser.

Sell it and buy an 80" plane. Power it with a Brillelli 46cc.

You can buy an 80" Cap 232 from Blackhorse models for $300.

http://www.americanpioneerhobbies.co...180_scale.html

Or, for silly cheap, you can get almost the same thing from Giant Scale Planes for $200.
http://www.giantscaleplanes.com/cap23280.htm

Sure looks like the same plane to me. Might not be, but it's close. I have personally NOT had good business relations with GSP, but lots of guys have. As always, it's your choice to do business with them and your responsibility to check them out and call them before you plunk down the Visa card. For $200, I'd probably risk it if I could at least get them on the phone and get a solid answer out of them on ETA and shipping prices. I don't like it when companies are ambiguous.

You can go to Scotts website and check out his conversions:
http://www.scottellingson.com/

Here's the engines:
http://brillelli.com/brillelli_engines_002.htm

Click on that 46cc engine and look at the details of it. $395 for a 46cc engine that swings plenty of wood is a good deal. It's a Poulan conversion engine and they have an excellent reputation for being good runners. Scott has a pretty good reputation too. I haven't done business with him, but he sure seams to have a good rep. around RCU.

$400 for the engine
$200--$300 for the plane
$250--$400 for servos (5 High Torque servos at about $50-75 apiece)
Miscellaneous hardware, batteries and switches $200

You could easily get your first gasser flying for about $1300.

I'd do that before I'd try and stuff a gasser into a 140 size plane with only 960 squares. The bigger plane will fly so much smoother and cleaner. It will handle the weight of the engine without sacrificing the wing loading.

Good luck in whatever you choose.

What about this for a 46 or 50cc

http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mv...=CMPAerobatics

or this

http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mv...Model_GasPower

or this

http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mv...Model_GasPower

That Extra 300L with 87" span and 1420 squares at 15-16 pounds looks good. Good wing loading. And I'd almost buy it on principal just BECAUSE they didn't call it a 330L. I hate that. There is no such thing as a factory 330L. Never made one. Now they DID make a 300L and Rich Models has properly identified it. Kinda pricey for an entry level gasser if your on a budget. There's cheaper out there, but the Rich models Extra 300L looks good.

The Yak also looks good if you like Yaks. I don't care for the looks. Haven't ever flown one, just don't like the way they look. But, the numbers add up to good performance. 87" and 1457 squares at 15.5--16.5 pounds is a good combination. Still a bit pricey if your on a budget. Probably pretty high quality though. It better be for that price.

The CMP models Extra 300l (blue) is listed at 80" but when you look at the specs, the span is listed at 77.2" So, which is it? I don't like ambiguity. Is it 77.2" or is it 80". Whats the wing area in squares? It's not even listed. A lot of these China ARFs are listed in dm2--whatever that is. But on this Extra, it's not listed in any form. I'm weary of planes that don't list all the specs. What if it's 77.2" and 800 squares? Or 80" and 918 squares? It's going to fly like a manhole cover. If you could call him and get an accurate number of squares--then I might toss it back in the mix and make a good comparison. But, without those wing area specs--it's worthless to even consider it in the decision.

You can do a search in the ARF forum and also in the Giant Scale forums for these planes. Search for Rich Models Extra or Rich Models Yak or CMP Extra 300L or CMPro Extra 300L Stuff like that. I'm sure you'll dig up some user reviews here on RCU. This is the best place in the world to find out how a plane flies. The guys on RCU can be brutal at times (myself included) and if any of those planes is a piece of junk--they'll have already said it in a post somewhere on RCU. Do some searches on them.

I think if you start getting up in the 16 pound range--you need to start looking more at a 50cc or 60cc engine and put the smaller 40 and 46cc engines on the back burner. There's nuthin' worse or more sickening than an anemic aerobat. Put some power on the plane and learn to use that left stick. It goes up and down.

Another way to do it is to buy your plane. Build all of it except the engine. Install all your servos, linkages, RX, switches--everything. Then you figure out how much weight you need on the nose to balance the plane. Go buy an engine that weighs that much. If you need 4lbs 13oz to balance it--then find an engine with an all up weight RTF with prop and muffler of 4lbs 13oz and buy that one. If you need 5lbs 2oz--then go buy a 5lbs 2oz engine.

You might end up with a ZDZ80 or a 3W-70 on a plane like this if it ends up tail heavy and you need nose weight. (think original BME Edge 540 with 85" span--notorious for being tail heavy) But, as long as the plane isn't overloaded, its fine. Just don't be stupid with the throttle. I do it on every single aerobatic plane that I have. I don't balance anything with lead except my wingtips. I use my engine and batteries to balance. And I realize that my throttle stick should not be treated like a lightswitch. It's not an ON/OFF switch. If a guy wants to fly like that--he should be involved in control line speed. Turn it on--go like nuts till it runs outta fuel--deadstick it. Thats where he'll do well and have the most fun.

I've seen guys put a ZDZ80 on an 80"-- 85" plane with 3 servos in the tail and the RX and RX batteries way back almost under the turtledeck. It's absolutely insane, but if the plane still only weighs 15 or 16 pounds and it balances and flies well--why not? There's no rule that says you have to be more than 1/4 throttle to hover. There's no rule that says you can't punch out of a hover like you shot it out of a cannon. I wouldn't hold it full throttle for more than a couple seconds--not even when it's pointed straight up. You CAN overspeed the airframe when it's going straight up. You can fold it right in half and snap the wings off going straight up. They can be that powerful. But you have to control yourself and NOT do that. Just use the power to fly the plane and don't tear up your airframe by getting greedy with the throttle stick. You'll stuff the pane some day and it's only natural to get so addicted to these things that your always looking for a bigger one. Get the big motor now if thats what it takes to balance this particular plane. You'll have a use for it down the road--trust me.

It's too much power when you can't slow it down enough to land at idle. When you have to kill the engine and deadstick it--then you got too much power. Anything less is okay. [sm=lol.gif]