I think I am going to get the flip 3d over the ucando. my question is on servos. I want to keep it light, so would use hitec 225mgs, the are a little bit smaller than a standard servo, but still 70oz torque. My question is, will they fit in the flip 3d or are the holes cut out for standard servos? How are the servos set up for the elevator and rudder? are they in the tail, or the fuse? provisions for 2 elevator servos? I plan on using a ys 63 on mine, where did everyones balance with the 63? I appreciate the info.

Holes are cut for standard servos. For elev and rudder, you have one servo each - mounted in tail. You'll need one 6" servo ext and one 12" (I think that's what I used, if I remember correctly)

You could modify to to use 2 elev servos in the tail and then move the rudder servo to the fuse and make it pull-pull, like on the Laser 3D.

I used futaba 9206 on the rudder and elev of mine and Hitec 5625mg on the ailerons. however I might switch them to the 225mg.

balance was right on with battery ahead of the tank (because you'll mount the tank on CG with YS63, there's room in the front of the plane, in the space that would normally hold the tank)

- Scott

Thanks for the info, how hard is it to make the rudder pull pull? how do the elevators work together in the rear if you use only one servo? you think 225mgs would fit without modification?

How about Futaba 9602s?

is everyone spraying clear on theirs to keep the striping, etc on?

I haven't heard of anyone spraying theirs with polycrylic or similar...

elevators are (normally) joined with a pretty sturdy wire, heard of no problems with it

Futaba 9602's? I'd think more torque would be required if doing full 3D - they're pretty large control surfaces!

I want a strong, but really fast servo, was thinking on hitec digital 5925, 130oz each, but .08 speed at 6.0v, and use 5245s in the wing at 70oz .13 speed, should work out ok.

Did anyone not use the flying wires? Also, I am going to buy a tru turn lite spinner, my question is, is the fuselage shape more for a standard or FAI shaped spinner? Going to order one tommorow.

Also, does anyone have any install pictures and pictures with cowl on with the YS 63?

Well, ended up ordering hitec 5625s for the elevator and rudder, and 5245s for the ailerons. Going to scrap the hinges for dubro nylon pinned hinges. going to use carbon fiber rods (4-40) and mk 1" control horns, bb clevis'. About the spinner, the people at tru turn said that a 2 1/4" spinner will not work with the ys adapter, so no lite spinner , so just bought a plastic white one and will carve the hell out of it for the 14x4W prop for the YS 63.

Has anybody placed the provided control horns on the hinge line? Or are you putting them back on the hardwood mounts ? Arent they supposed to be on the hinge line (especialy with such large surfaces?)

I know YNOT used MK horns, but mounted them on the hinge line, I think I am going to do that as well, but fill the holes with some ca to strenghten the wood.

Dont the MK horns have enough offset on the pivot assy to allow you to mount them back far enough? I have some Sulliven large control horns I'm thinking of using - barely enough offset for the front bolt, but the rear will be firmly in the hardwood

MK makes two kinds of horns, the ones with one screw going through middle of the horn, and the other version that is offset by using 3 screws in a triangular shape.

Yeah, I just looked at their site, neither one looks like it gets it right on the hinge line - so is it not that critical to place the cont. horn on the line ? I always thought it was - to prevent flutter and with all these aspects workin against you on these 3d birds I figuered it was critical. or is it cause of the lower speeds you dont worry so much??

I think its because the low speeds its not an issue, especially with the 4 pitch props, somewhere on here, YNOT has a bunch of pics posted with the control horns installed. Do you have your flip yet?

Yeah, got it sat. - so do you think these sullivens will be ok? should I mount securly (both bolts in hardwood) or on the hinge line (one bolt in hardwood) or get the MK with CF rods??

I have a big fear of flutter, so using 4-40 carbon fiber rods, with mk horns just mounted through the wood, and going to pour some thin ca in the hole to help harden the wood. I dont think I would use the stuff in the kit, but some have with ok results. I just like it to be sound.

Yeah, I know what you mean (see my post about GP Ballinks) also as I was drilling for the Sullivan horn I realized that the mount block is just balsa - I had though it was hard wood - so that kind of makes it moot as to where the mount bolts go thru. Think I'm gonna go with the MK's too.

Would you please elaborate more to why a 2 1/4 inch tru turn spinner does not work with the adapter tru turn designed for the YS .63 - 1.20. Did you ask if they could possibly modify one to work?

After some research into this I think the problem hs to do with the long shaft on the YS .63. I do believe tru turn's ultimate style spinner should work which is called a JET. I would advise getting the 120 slot version also to clear the 14x4W prop.

Flip is finished, fired up the ys 63 on the cool power 30% heli, 10600 rich out of the box with the apc 14x4W. Here is a pic, hope to fly soon when weather gets better

Is anyone mixing flaperons (in up position) with down elevator for waterfalls? If so, is it any better? I have my cg a little aft of the aft recommended, does a nice waterfall, but would like to tighten it up a little aka flip!

Are you talking spoilerons? In the elev - flap mix on my radio (9C) it does it for you - if you put in up elev flaps go down, if you put in down elev flaps (spoilers) go up, and yes it helps it flip