I finally was able to torque roll but on a sim only (fms), however, I was able to do 2 rolls given the position of the model is sustained. This was using the cap 222 model.

The problem was not keeping track of orientation as much as keeping the throttle at the sweet-spot level. I was wondering if in real life the throttle behavior would be better. Also, I am using an old JR transmitter with an audio connection so am not sure if this also has to do with accurate throttle. I tried to use different techniques to control the throttle like givings burst of power but it keeps either going up and down a bit.

About the hover, with the cap 222 on fms, I honestly did not understand how it could be done since the model rolls as soon as it reaches the weightless phase.

I would love the opinion of some experienced 3d pilots!

Thanks in advance

Ok I'll take what's probably bait and slap my flame suit on while daring to say that I personally strongly feels that your primary problem lies within the following word:"fms".

throttle shouldn't be a problem. on all upper end computer trransmitters, you have a throttle curve to adjust your trottle. You can dial it in just so....

In 3D flight all the controls move all the time. Throttle control is a critical skill, along with rudder. You will find that your left stick is never still. In high alpha flight there is very little air movement over your control surfaces so you need to blip the throttle constantly.
At the same time you do not want a lot of thrust as the plane will pick up forward speed. If you can change your sim properties try the largest engine swinging a big dia low pitch prop.
If you are really into 3D go join the "profile brotherhood" (PRO BRO) a couple of the bro's have developed sim profile planes and have posted them free.
Oh and get a real plane and practice practice practice. I fly glow, MOJO 60 with a Saito 91, Primo with a Magnum 52, and sub 16oz balsa electric. Skeeter 30 with a KA22-10S on 3S1P 1000M 18 amp speed control swinging a 9x4.3 APC slow fly prop.
Last change the Cap, they make crappy 3D planes as Caps tend to be very snap happy.

Thanks spacey for your analysis. I am guessing you are saying fms is not great for 3d practicing!

I hope it is harder and this is what I feel.


I have a 15 year old cub and I am flying it on floats here in kuwait beach areas. It has a four stroke fs 70 engine while it is designed for a 50 range saito. I always felt it had so much power I can almost instantly lift it off water ( with less than 10 feet run on water). Sometimes I could get off stalls as soon as I give it burst of throttle.

I was wondering if I can use my cub with 70 os 4 stroke for basic 3D stuff !?

By the way way, your nick "spacy" has some connection with 3d! In 3d is almost feels like you're in space

Your Cub won't do 3D very well for a couple reasons. First, and most obvious is the wing dihedral and airfoil. It would be really hard to do a knife edge while the wing is trying to flip itself back upright. Another reason is the wing incidence. The Cubs wing and empenage would fight each other durring high alpha maneuvers.
As far as FMS ... try an extra or an edge ... something that was made to hover.The caps and yaks aren't meant for someone just getting into 3d. Start with something with a thick wing and large control surfaces.

Heeey you'll be surprised how well a Cub can knife edge...bwhahahah. Don't ask!


q8cub: FMS is not widely famous for accurate dynamics when it comes to the more advanced styles of flying. Why not invest in a decent sim with your scenario as it is? Something like Aerofly Pro Deluxe or Phoenix? A decent sim is vital I think for someone wanting to learn 3D on a budget, and I speak from experience as this is how I did it and am still doing it. Anyways I'll stop my comical comments now and say that in real life it's not all that difficult to get the throttle in the right spot, the model won't just jump up and down unless it is seriously overpowered and that's hardly ever the case. Even the big 33% H9 Edge-540 with a DA100 on the nose I got to fly on occasion was easy to lock the throttle in and this puppy was hovering at 1/3 stick.

Well, depends on your budget. I would take the $100 you'd spend on a sim and invest it in some corrugated plastic. You'd be surprised at how many SPADs you can build for $100

Somehow I was able to gradually get into it. I just did 10 rolls in a torque roll on cap 222 and the yak models under fms.


The feeling is starting to click but like all said, it takes practice and practice.

One can argue that torque rolling is the ultimate model control! If you master it, then you can pull your model from any angle to any position!