I recently built a GP US40+ kit hoping (as advertised) that it would be 3D capable. However, it is more of pattern.

What I want to ask is, upto 90 size and excluding profiles, are there any airplane kits that can be built for 3D. I usually build everything with epoxy except where tacking is required

Ameyam

Why excluding profiles? None fly better.

One of the best kit 3D flyers out there is the Paul Swani (sic) Mojo line. His kits range from the 15 tp 90 sizes, all are exceptional flyer's. They are profile, you need to try one. The entire fuse length is reinforced with a CF tube, will take some abuse. ENJOY

I was skeptical about profiles until I got one in November. I started flying it this season and I LOVE IT! Its so much fun. I would give it a chance. Ive been trying to learn 3D for 2 seasons now; and have to say that a profile is the way to go!

The thing about profiles is that there is nothing on them that's not absolutely necessary for flight.
That gives them WAY better power to weight ratios, especially on the smaller (90 and under) size birds.

I would have to agree on the profiles. Once you try one, you'll be hooked.

There do not seem to be any mainstream kits for full fuselage 3D planes. You could maybe do a Sig Somethin' Extra and enlarge the control surfaces, counter-balance the rudder and elevator, and stuff a .55AX in it. You could maybe even do the same thing to a Tower Uproar. Neither one will fly 3D as well as a Mojo.

Good luck.

Here's another possibility, but again, nothing like a Mojo.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ580&P=0

Good luck

No, the GP Extra300 60 isint 3D capable. You need to modify it to go 3D.

Mojo it is. Paul has a wing removal kit and a 2.5 Deg thrust plate listed on his site as optional. Any idea why these are needed?

Ameyam

I would only do the removable wink kit if you absolutely have to for fitting it in your vehicle.
Removable wings add weight and unnecessary complexity.

The 60 size MoJo and Saito 100-115 are the perfect combo.
The MoAss mod is integrated into the kit now.
This size fly's just enough slower to give you a lot more reaction time for learning.

The 65 is great if you have a 125-140 4-stroke or 120AX laying around. This kit comes with removable wings.

Here is the MoJo 60 in action.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZHqPuAAVXU[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pKU1LFvlMM[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFQmodJU0f8[/youtube]

I can fit my MoAss 60 into my Honda CR-V in one piece, along with a couple other planes at the same time. It fits into our RAV-4 with plenty of room to spare. If your vehicle is at least as big as one of those, build it in one piece. It's really light and strong.

The Mojo 40 will fit into about any vehicle.

The thrust plates are available because profiles are built as a straight plank. There isnt any thrust offset built into the nose because there isnt a motor box. If you notice on a full fuse plane, the firewall is usually set to the left a little.

I didnt get the thrust plates for my profile. I just added washers under the front engine mount holes. Would probably need 1-2 washers to get the 2 degrees.

I build all my profiles at 0-0 no right or down thrust. If it needs anything and most don't, it's just a little right thrust.

Over at the "Brotherhood" some say the Moass is not for windy weather and that a Primo is better then. How much wind is too much wind for a MoAss. I usually have to deal with 15 MPH winds and frequently cross the runway etc.

Also, Mclina..........what year is your RAV4? How do you get a MoAss into it? Do you disconnect control surfaces and go full deflection (90degrees?)

I fly mine in up to 30 mph winds. It's not as fun but it can be done.
I actually prefer a 5mph steady for 3D over totally calm.

The Mojo wing is thicker than the Primo so has a lot more drag. both will fly just fine in the wind with the Primo being a bit easyer to land.
My Mojo has removable wings and a Saito 91 on the nose, hovers just fine with plenty of left over grunt for pull out. All CA build
Primo 40 has been re done from glow to electric. Picked the power system to get the same all up weight. Currently running around 1200 Watts on an APC 15x6 prop 6S battery.
On the Primo unless you want a CG set really far back build and cover the wings plus tail parts then test assemble, most find the tail servos need to be moved forward.
The Primo will fly fine with the CG @ 5+" back but will drop it's tail when you cut throttle. Some fix this with a switched throttle to elavator mix tied to throttle position.
For a "first" 3D 60 size build the Mojo and beat it to death then build a Primo. 3D with the Mojo is slow motion so you have lots of time get things right. With that big thick wing it will fly super slow and still respond well, that will build your skills fast as it now is really easy to get low and close.
I am "flashburn" over @ the brotherhood, lurk there a lot, going with an electric Lam Yak for the next build
Currently flying
Mojo 60 glow
Primo 40 electric
"Q" Katana, Skeeter 30 and 36, KX2 all electric all sadly currently unobtanium
"Spaz" Sabre electric, fave plane right now
"3DHS" Sukhoi electric, what the hell was I thinking "least fave plane and the most spendy"

Sorry. I haven't checked this thread in a while. My RAV4 is a 2007. I also have a 2002 Honda CR-V, which it fits into. To get it into either car, I put in in through the rear driver-side door. With all the seats folded down, and the driver's seat pushed forward a bit, stick the tail through the door, dip the right wing behind the driver's seat, and rotate the plane in. On the CR-V you need to flex both ailerons up all the way, and it's a tight fit. It slides into the RAV4 with room to spare.

Good luck

My first profile is a Primo 40. I use a TT75fs and a 13-4 MAS. GREAT flyer! It can take a 15 MPH wind.