RCU Forums - seduction freestyle plans.

Ok in answer to your questions,

The CF gear is not cut, just a standard Ripmax CF unit which is a longer unit as the landing gear plate is set ¾” from the bottom of the fuz. Top of the plate to the ground mesures 160mm. I now have easy clearnce for 13 and 14” props.

As for the thickness of the wing I will look at that this evening.

The C50 did have the filets in it. I would question using light ply to mount the wing… The seduction has a lamination of light ply for the blind nuts, but a peg at the leading edge of the wing to fit into F2

I wrote a report when I first built it. Can find the link, but here is some of it. Sorry, but hope you are still awake at the end of it.

Kris

Building.
I will not go though a blow-by-blow account of the build because there is a lot of building, I will detail the got-ya’s and the point out what I changed in the kit.
First things first, when ordering the kit make sure you have ordered the tank. It is of rounded shape and you will have a problem getting on that fits. You get no wheels, control horns or push rods. I guess the manufacture feels that if you are building this advanced aerobatic model, you will be experienced and have your own preferences for fitting aircraft of this type.
The plane, because of the laser cutting goes together very quickly. Just like a 3 dimensional jigsaw puzzle. Medium and Thick cyno was used throughout, only using small amounts of epoxy and thin cyno where required. The instructions are on a very large sheet, it is imperative to look ahead least three steps, as they will make the earlier step clearer. You will need three large flat areas to build the model. First for the instructions. Second for the wood sheets, which you will need to sort out to find the part you need and third for putting the model together.
When assembling the fuselage sides, you are meant to leave a 1/16-inch offset of the layers along the top edge. This then creates a shouldered area for the turtle deck and front deck sheeting to glue onto. The instructions aren't to clear on this detail. If you miss this you fuselage will not quite line up. The firewall and servo tray/tank area can fit either way round. Take special care to get this correct, or you will end up with a firewall with the correct side thrust but the motor on the wrong side of the fire wall.
The landing gear looks weak and wraps under the wing. The clearance is low and 13 inch prop will have problems clearing the ground. I replaced the unit with a longer carbon gear unit. It would need to be done at this point as I don’t think you will be able to retrofit it later.
The stringers on the top rear deck need to be braced, as the decking will easily be crushed.
Don’t shape the wood around the undercarriage until you have built and fitted the wing. The shaping begs to be rounded but the wing under belly is square and will not align with the fuselage.
The kit comes with a heavy plastic motor mount for the YS 63 or 40/46 two stroke. Cut the excess beam length off this mount I cut ¾ inch off the ends.
The Wing dihedral in instructions is very confusing. The correct dihedral is 32mm measured at the bottom of the tip rib, with one wing flat on the building board. I can confirm that knife-edge required a little elevator mixing as there is a tendency to pitch to the canopy. So may be a reduction to 30mm will be required. I did not use the plastic wing tips and extra balsa wing tip plates. I added a layer of 1/32-inch plywood to the outer tip rib.
The elevator servo is in the wrong location. It has been moved to accommodate the rudder servo on the other side of the fuselage. I have build mine as the kit and I have found the geometry to be slightly out, giving not exactly the same amount of up and down elevator at full deflection. The answer is to move the rudder servo to the cockpit and use a closed loop, then move the elevator servo to the correct geometry. All the linkages are 3mm rod. The rudder and elevator mountings were reinforced with ply from inside the fuselage.
When the tail when it came off the building board felt quite flexible, so I cross braced it across all the rib sections, now its very strong. Some free flight building experience coming in here.
The kit comes with a clear plastic cowl, which requires painting. The plastic is tougher than the white ABS, but I would still be worried that it may develop cracks. Reinforce the mounting holes with a layer of plastic from trimming the canopy, thin ply, fiberglass or something. I have now replaced the cowl with a glass one, which my friend made for me. The Spats are made of the same material, but in white and have stood up well to our grass patch

Motor selection. Put the YS63 in it. Its pumped, has loads of power and torque with liner acceleration, which is what you need in an aircraft like this. Prop selection is APC 13x6. I can knife edge loop mine on 1/2 power with this prop. I am sure that a 46 two stroke and alike will work well but it will destroy the flying qualities/Subtleties. Also you will get a C of G shift as the fuel burns off as the tank will need to be located behind the firewall for the unpumped two stroke.
Make sure you have some powerful servos on the rudder and elevator; I am running Hitec 605's elevator and rudder, Hitec HS525mg's for Ailerons and a Hitec HS 81mg for throttle, all on 6V 1100mAh rx pack. I have made no real changes to the kit other than this and the aircraft ready to fly, covered in Profilm chrome red and white, came out at 4.5lbs dry.

Seduction FS first flights,

Still playing with the setup but this was my impressions after the first day of flying

What can I say but WOW… this was without any special weight saving going on. The YS has been nicely run in on my Kyosho Majestic.

The weather was cold about 7 degrees C, 2 - 5mph wind. So range check etc. all ok, set low rates and off. The plane needed a few clicks of right aileron and it then tracked spot on hands off. I had set the c of g at the revised position, if you have the kit you will see an amendment sheet. This gives a rearward c of g moving the balance point back by ¾”. A few circuits and check out the roll, very axial with no over rotation. Cancel the aileron and the roll stops dead. The loop, inside and outside, tracked dead straight. Verticals required a little rudder correction and boy don’t it just go up. So with the rates off, the rudder is mighty powerful. A stall turn was tried and the aircraft all but stops on the power of the rudder and turns on its axis with no coupling. Then some knife-edge, There was some pitching toward the canopy, this is easily corrected by mixing, maybe some playing of the c of g required or less dihedral. Knife-edge circle and figure eight tried all very easy. Then a knife-edge loop, no problems just hold the rudder over and balance on the elevator and ailerons. The last ¾ of the loop the plane just tracks round with no drama. All very easy and on ½ power! The high Alpha knife-edge is great, angle of attack around 45 degrees. Then for some spins both flat and inverted with very little loss of height. Then some snaps all easy and controllable, but watch that rudder. Then I thought I should test the slow speed handling. I had it hovering in a 5 mph breeze. Then for a prop hang, I found that it will fall off the prop hang, but that is down to me and not the model, I need a little more practice with this trick. Later flight I discovered that I could flat spin and flick to inverted then back again on just the rudder, no input from other controls and all at a little over idle. If you up the power the spin is just faster and the decent rate decreases, the knife-edge spin was tried, with similar effects, the lost of height was very low. I then tried a stall turn around the 270 degrees and off on the knife-edge, but go easy on that rudder. Then for some knife-edge horizontal eights all on half power and easy, really looks great. Tried an Elevator, full up elevator with the throttle to balance the decent and stop the stall, the wing wobble horribly. Conversely the inverted elevator was stable. Possibly needs a little spoiler mixed in for this maneuver. Landing was dead easy just line it up throttle back, with the 13 X 6 prop and the four stroke, the braking effect is tremendous. Pull the nose up for a perfect 3 pointer at walking pace.