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ORIGINAL: EXTRA ADDICT

Be careful with adding right thrust I did that to mine and it developed a snap off.

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ORIGINAL: u8racing
I went with Central Hobbies bearing clevises on all the control surfaces and thier carbon rod split elevator control system, man that set up was a bugger to install but it is 100% slop free

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"From: Troy A. Newman
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 3:11 PM
To: stg1
Subject: Re: DEPS Pushrod system


Its not the best system for large throws. The idea is you don't want the CF rods bending at all. Obviously they are going to flex some as the surface rotates and the clevis pin rises or falls in relation to the its neutral position.

If you had one of the 0.070" CF rods in your hand you would see that while they will bend slightly that don't like to bend. A 3D application is the place for this to work. I'm routinely running less than 20 degs of travel on the elevators on my pattern models. This is a maximum stiffness, minimum differential, best Precision setup. If you are moving a surface 40-50degs (3D rates) then the precision is not what you want. You want holding power and linkage geometry to give the servo the best possible advantage to hold the surface deflected at that 50 degs. If one side is 49 and the other is 50 you are not going to see it. The surface will be so stalled it can't tell. The result maybe say a couple clicks of rudder trim at most. In our pattern models maximum throw needed on an elevator is like 15-20degs....So this elevator system was designed to take advantage of this criteria.

On my Flashdance (AA version (3D) of the Pl Prod Excellence) I stuck 8411SA's in the tail as the elevators are very large 70% of the horizontal surface, and I have nearly 60 degs of travel up and down. My opinion is this dual servo setup is the best for large throws. On a pattern model sized elevator I use a single 8411SA and this is way over kill in the power department. But in the Flashdance the surfaces are large and I bang them around hard. The 8411SA is probably a minimum for the job. We are talking Servo horn to control horn ratios of 3 to 1 for the pattern setup and 1 to 1 for the AA model."

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ORIGINAL: EXTRA ADDICT

Well I just added a washer behind the left side of the mount because it was hard to lock into a hover and pulled left on uplines but it didn't like it.

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ORIGINAL: southern_touch9
I used dual elevator setups. I cut out two places close to the horizontal. When cutting this area out if you want the servo to have MAX. mechanical advantage your going to cut through the stringers that run for support. I went ahead and did this then patched it. Now on the backside of the two holes I added my hardpoints. I havent flown mine yet but I know it will work. I refused to go with a split elevator setup b/c they suck. I need to put some serious time into this thing this weekend. I got the saito 1.00 on the front already mounted now its just a matter of installing the radio gear and going to the field.

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ORIGINAL: u8racing
GPS
I have about 45 degrees of traval and they seem to be very smooth top to bottom, the rods dont seem to overly flex too much and when moving the rods at the servo end by hand there is no binding, I can move them from lock up to lock down no prob. I only have about 3" of exposed rod from the exit of the fuse to the titainium ends, they seem to flex enough for the full traval but not week at all...
And the traval is dead on with both sides.
I guess we will see, I hope they work, I would hate to have to take the system out after all the work to install it...**TIP** I dont think this system was really ment to install in an ARF....:-0 It's a pain....
Pat

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ORIGINAL: tIANci

Nice job GP ... please go inverted, the Saito 100 sticking out by the side is really ugly. :)

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ORIGINAL: u8racing

So I have a ? Since all the control arm pivot points on this plane are behind the hinge line does it help to rotate the servo arm one notch (on the servo) toward the control horn from center or one notch away to help even up the differencial throw of the control arm??

Never built a plane with all the pivot points behind the hinge line.

I built a custom rudder servo arm out of 6061 T6 aluminum with a 5/16 offset for that problem, but just wanted some more info the the other ones.

Any input reguarding the fuel tank install in my earlier post, #104??

Thanks

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