300s for 3d work
 

just finished the rudder today.

300s for 3d work
 

Don't forget to put some sites in that structure for some flying wires. These flat-stabs do need them, I lost a real nice GP Extra due to stab flutter, it was real nice and well built, but that one thing did it in. The one I have right now is a clone, except for c/f built into the span of rear-stab, and flying wires. I wrench that plane around too, no prob, except for a broken flying wire one time.

Also, someone did say the .40size is nearly as big as the .60...I can attest to that fact. At 15ft apart you can't tell the size diff at all. In the air I'd say it impossible, although once you see the subtle differences they are easily ID'd, but for the most part, there is no drastic difference at all. I'd have to think I'd put a YS120 in the .60 size. At least a YS.91

300s for 3d work
 

Ya I was thinking about that. Thanks for conferming it. I think i have some carbon laying around.
How did you break a wire??????
Are you using kevlar???
Do you know where i can find some???
I think i have some 2-56 pull/pull cable here also.

How does the tail look so far??? I hear that this plane flys kinda fast. I hoping that the liter wieght will alow it to fly slower and still track strait. Im going to be practing the imac pattern for the first time, and thought that this plane would do for priatce.Its only the sportsman and intermedite pattern. Shouldnt be to demanding on the airframe.

300s for 3d work
 

If you can build it light then there shouldn't be a problem flying a little slower. Mine flies fast because it's clean, but landings are a cakewalk. Those surfaces look nice, just make sure they are strong enough to resist flutter. This thing will pick up speed when pointed downhill. This plane is good not only for practice, but competition as well. In the lower levels it is all about the pilot anyway. I flew mine at a meet last summer in basic class and beat a GP 40 ARF, several Goldberg 300's a GP 1/4 Giles, and a 3w 40% Extra, for a 1st place finish. I plan on using it as a backup for next year in sportsman/intermediate.

300s for 3d work
 

Sounds sweet. I tryed to im you but you dont have it on. I was hoping the get some setup info from you if possaible. throws, cg, things like that. Thanks

300s for 3d work
 

sorry that last post was for DGrant.
FlyFalcons...can you give me some stats? cg, wieght, etc...
so far ive hear 3 people tell me to put wires on. guess what im going to do? hehe.

300s for 3d work
 

got some pics of the wing. I wish i had a scale. these are really light.

300s for 3d work
 

if you look real close you can see the 1/4 x 1/8 spruce spar and double spar at the root.

300s for 3d work
 

Heres the stock fuse befor i butcher it.

300s for 3d work
 

mods to fuse

300s for 3d work
 

ooops wrong pic. heres the right one

300s for 3d work
 

HOPE YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING :spinnyeye :D

300s for 3d work
 

ya me too

300s for 3d work
 

King, that's good work! Good Luck in 3D. It's refreshing to see someone who isn't afraid to go all out and give it their all! Ignore the skeptics and run head first as fast as you can! Ya might wanna consider flattening out the dihedral. I fly the 60 size and it would do better with a little less.

300s for 3d work
 

Don't flatten the dihedral on this plane! It was designed so there would be no roll coupling during knife edge. There is hardly any of it anyway, being flat on the top and using the wing taper for the dihedral effect. Bottom line, don't mess with it.

300s for 3d work
 

Keep at my friend,

I managed to build the GP 40 size Cap at 4.27lbs.

Everything was done with weight reduction in mind. The first thing I did was to throw all of the wood away and replaced everything with contest balsa.

For your spar you should of used lite balsa square stock and 3M'ed a piece of uni carbon on the outside edge. When you lay down your sheeting, you just use thin CA and it wicks through the uni and makes the sheeting/uni/spar a soild piece. Very strong, very lite, very easy!!!

I ran a LA 40 ( super lite engine)with a Macs pipe and Nomex honeycomb firewall, and at this weight it had complete unlimited vertical. I used Hitec 225's on everything but throttle, which was a HS-81. Used Spider Wire for the Pull-Pull and had Stans Fiber Tech lay me up a single layer carbon cowl.

It took about three months to complete, but was well worth it.

Darrin C

300s for 3d work
 

hmm. I built the wing stock and theres about 2 deg dihedral in it. the top of the wing does angle in a little at the center.
I built a gp 232 and took the dihedral out and did not like it. it cross coupled soo bad in knige edge. I made my own ribs for this one so if i dont like it i can build another one.
So far it looks like the plane will be in the low 5 lb range. I was hoping for 4.5 but i dont know yet. Will have to wait and see. I still have some more carving to do on the fuse. Just have to wait till i get the decks on.
thanks for the kind words and i will keep you posted.

300s for 3d work
 

It is interesting to see all the things you are doing to it. I fired up my GP Extra today for the first time. That Super tiger 60 pulls hard. I am using a 12x6 prop (master airscrew). What difference would a APC 11x8 or a 13x5 make? I don't want lots of top speed, just vertical. I'll post pics of my new bird tomorrow night.

300s for 3d work
 

break the motor in first. Than put a apc13x4w on it. I had a gp cap with a .61 on it and that prop won hands down.
So whats the wieght on the 300 with the 60???

300s for 3d work
 

I don't know yet. I will weigh it at work tomorrow. I didn't build weight saving into it; knowing a 60 was going in. After reading and learning more here, I wish I had! Oh well, that is a good enough reason to go buy another kit!! HMM, what will I get next? Maybe I'll just put a 60 into my ultimate fun fly 40 and see how that works.
Won't a 13x4 over rev the engine? I don't know what the "W" stands for. Could you fill me in?

300s for 3d work
 

apc 13x4w means wide prop for 3d....

have one on my saito.. motor & gp u-can-do..

olmanbruce

300s for 3d work
 

The 13x4w will not over rev the motor. The w is wide. the 12x6 is over reving and not giving you any thrust. If you get real low in a hover i would put a 13x5 wood on it.Hope this helps

300s for 3d work
 

it seems to run ok on my saito 100... have had neg. comments
could cause engine to throw a rod.. im going to try a 15x6
only real problem im having is the engin flood when i first start after refueling.. engine is mounted inverted.. going to work on the low idle adjustmen. im using the byron ys 20-20 fuel.
all my saito engines love it..

olmanbruce

300s for 3d work
 

olmanbruce....Yes i would worry about the 13 on a satio 100. I dont know 4stroks but that sounds REAL small for that motor.

300s for 3d work
 

This is wicked! I get to talk to fellow rc'ers all day long and learn stuff. I had never heard of some of the things that are talked about here. Now that you mention it, The engine seemed to be running a bit high. It might demonstrate a bit more power with a better prop selection. That is never a bad thing. What experience is out there with the older st 60 engines? Mine has "60" stamped on the port side, with a large "V" cast under it. Just the typical "made in Italy" stuff on the starboard side.