RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: gr8taz nitro Nice flight Jason. I'm sure gonna miss seeing you fly the u-can-do with the heli motor on it though. It sure doesn' look like it suffers in the vertical.:) I'm gonna have to wait awhile to try one though. I picked up a 500 size helicopter and blew my rat-hole fund.[&o] Be sure and buy plenty of thread locker! The .91 has good vertical but nothing like the hot rod U-Can-Do with Hyper .50. That airplane died at a night fly doing blenders! I still have all the servos and engine. You never know I might order another one. You know for stress relief! Are you going to the Tulsa Heatwave? I will be there sweating it out. Jason |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl I am able to put the Reactor Bibe in the cab of a Quad cab F-150 assembled. Once the airplane is in a standard size field box and TX case has plenty of room with it. The fuse length is where you might have trouble with the airplane assembled. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl Roy, Be sure and buy plenty of thread locker! The .91 has good vertical but nothing like the hot rod U-Can-Do with Hyper .50. That airplane died at a night fly doing blenders! I still have all the servos and engine. You never know I might order another one. You know for stress relief! Are you going to the Tulsa Heatwave? I will be there sweating it out. Jason The bipe does look good in the air though. I do have a saito 100 that could use a good home also. I'll have to take a closer look. Maybe I can get traded out and make it up Saturday. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
1 Attachment(s)
More in-flight pictures.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I'm saving up for this one...looks fantastic! Got an OS .91 waiting for it.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos? |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: jpjamie Jason: Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos? I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors. Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you. Jason |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl ORIGINAL: jpjamie Jason: Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos? I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors. Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you. Jason The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad? One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know! |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: jpjamie ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl ORIGINAL: jpjamie Jason: Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos? I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors. Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you. Jason The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad? One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know! I would mount the engine exactly like the manual states. The CG will be much easier to hit that way. Jason |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl ORIGINAL: jpjamie ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl ORIGINAL: jpjamie Jason: Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos? I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors. Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you. Jason The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad? One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know! I would mount the engine exactly like the manual states. The CG will be much easier to hit that way. Jason Just checked the instructions for the firewall to spinner distance and it is 5 5/8" from the firewall to spinner. Checked my U-Can-Do and the same distance is 5 6/8", so I'm just off by 1/8" inch! Will have to "weight" and see how the CG works out and check the spinner fit. Of course the engine mount to firewall (bolt pattern) may be entirely different....duh! Just trying to save time and work. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: rhd-RCU I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: nmking09 The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever. Thanks nmking09! Great information! Retooling engine mount patterns these days doesn't make cents...but "UCD" makes more sense than typing out U-Can-Do! |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: 150flyer Built mine last week and have about eight flights so far. I agree the roll rate it super-charged (about four rolls per second on high rate). There is a huge range for the recommended CG. Right now, I am in the middle of the range and the plane handles much better than my original full forward range. I will continue to shift the CG aft until I no longer care for the flight characteristics. The engine is an OS .75 AX. It has great vertical and pulls out of a hoover easily. I still have a few more flights before I lean the engine for full power but for now I'm extremely happy with this engine for this plane. The other Reactor in the picture with two is a friends who mounted a Zenoa G20 with a 17 inch prop. It flys a little heavier but has impressive speed and vertical climb-out. I flew an aircraft today with a buddies OS .75 AX and was impressed with the power! I like the way you side mount it with the muffler on the bottom spewing the exhaust "mess" on the underside. I've got an OS .91 four stroke, which (according to a posting here) will bolt (mount + engine) right on this bipe's firewall after removing it from my U-Can-Do, but appreciate the "simplicity" of 2 strokin even tho it's a bit messier. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.
I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
150flyer,
I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one? Regards, Yngve |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: 150flyer The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D. I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: sekkenes 150flyer, I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one? Regards, Yngve |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Thanks, 150flyer. Ordered just now. :)
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8" Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as "tight" a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
You could try longer screws that would come far enough through the blind nuts to be able to put an extra nut to act as a locknut.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: jpjamie This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details. Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting. The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times. Jason |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl ORIGINAL: jpjamie This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details. Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting. The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times. Jason |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
VERY GOOD CHOICE.
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: JoeyCoates Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.
The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy? Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12" from each top aileron servo, then another 12" from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1. Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18" or 24" into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: malcolmm I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo. The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy? Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12'' from each top aileron servo, then another 12'' from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1. Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18'' or 24'' into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field. Later, Dan |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Ok guys gotta ask. I have a 100 2 stroke sitting here do ya think its too much?
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Any thoughts on the FG-14cc Saito.
Plane is built and ready to go just needs motor looking for a gasser! |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric. This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix :D I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:] |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Bdegan Just bought this plane [8D] I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric. This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix :D I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:] Which motor wind are you getting and from where (also which prop?) I just visited the NeSail site and all options seem to require 10S: http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=4886 Have you used (or seen) your intended power combo used on an 8 lb 3D plane before? I was thinking of outfitting an OMP Fusion with electric power for the winter months, but that plane has considerable field assembly and the one piece nature of this plane is a very attractive option. Using magnets for the battery hatch will really simplify cold weather field access also. Also, I"m curious will you be using skis or do you have access to a plowed/paved runway? You get snow up there too, don't you? If this works out I would order an extra set of gear for mine and put wheel pants for mud flaps and then quick change to another set with skis when the snow comes. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I plan to use this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7070]Motor[/link]
For a prop I am looking at something between 16x8 or 16x10. Maybe a 17x8. We get snow [:'(] I usually fly with skis, and a small ski on for the tail from a park flyer. Works fantstic. Even if it is only a light dusting over the grass. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Ok, that's certainly cheap enough to experiment. I thought you were going with a Hacker (which is an awesome choice, but more expensive so it pays to know exactly what you're getting).
I don't have much experience in large(r) glow/electric conversions in this size range so I like to know the power and instant thrust available beforehand for this weight. One thing I did learn is that for 3D the thin electric props are often NOT a good choice cause they cavitate and/or twist when overloaded so they mostly just make noise when you punch them. That would be a new prop size for me too as I normally use a 6" pitch on my glo birds for 3D. Keep us posted on your progress. I'll do the same if I can get my act together and finish some other projects now on the bench. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
For .40 and .60 size planes, these cheap chinese motors are doing pretty good. Lots of positive feedback.
For a larger high dollar investment like the Giant Reactor or any other 50cc bird, I went with a proven platform in the Castle HV110 and Hacker A60. The larger ( 50cc ) size cheaper electric motors are still having issues with throwing magnets. Also quite a few have a bad design in how the prop is bolted on. Its to easy to overtighten the prop bolt and pull the shaft in the motor causing the bearings to take a side load they were not designed to take. Ultimately, causing failures in a very very short time. With the price of LiPo's falling faster than our economies, .40 and .60size planes are now more cost effective to set up electric than with glow engines and fuel. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Oh, ok. You had me confused. I dind't realize the "giant" reactor was this plane: (NOT the bipe):
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...ReactorGP.html That's why I was curious why you picked such a big (and expensive) motor for what I thought was this 60 size bipe. I just saw your other thread and note you you were running two of your 6S packs in series on that Giant reactor. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: wind junkie Oh, ok. You had me confused. I dind't realize the ''giant'' reactor was this plane: (NOT the bipe): http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...ReactorGP.html That's why I was curious why you picked such a big (and expensive) motor for what I thought was this 60 size bipe. I just saw your other thread and note you you were running two of your 6S packs in series on that Giant reactor. |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Anyone have any pix or know how an OS 75 + slimline Q Pitts muffler fit in this plane? I want to minimize chopping the cowl.
I have tried to extrapolate by looking at pix on these forums but, man, it is a close call. TIA, Carlos |
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Here is what I have on my Reactor with a Saito 82. Did not have to cut much.
http://www.pspec.com/results.asp?category=4 |
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