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-   -   GP .60 Reactor Bibe (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/3d-flying-82/8808381-gp-60-reactor-bibe.html)

Jason 3-Danhakl 07-08-2009 02:13 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: gr8taz nitro

Nice flight Jason. I'm sure gonna miss seeing you fly the u-can-do with the heli motor on it though. It sure doesn' look like it suffers in the vertical.:)
I'm gonna have to wait awhile to try one though. I picked up a 500 size helicopter and blew my rat-hole fund.[&o]
Roy,
Be sure and buy plenty of thread locker! The .91 has good vertical but nothing like the hot rod U-Can-Do with Hyper .50. That airplane died at a night fly doing blenders! I still have all the servos and engine. You never know I might order another one. You know for stress relief!
Are you going to the Tulsa Heatwave? I will be there sweating it out.
Jason

wind junkie 07-08-2009 09:21 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl
I am able to put the Reactor Bibe in the cab of a Quad cab F-150 assembled. Once the airplane is in a standard size field box and TX case has plenty of room with it. The fuse length is where you might have trouble with the airplane assembled.
Thanks for the tip. Next time I see one, I'll be sure to ask the owner if I can borrow it long enough to check the fit in my car. I'll probably have to leave my keys with him! ;)

gr8taz nitro 07-08-2009 11:57 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl


Roy,
Be sure and buy plenty of thread locker! The .91 has good vertical but nothing like the hot rod U-Can-Do with Hyper .50. That airplane died at a night fly doing blenders! I still have all the servos and engine. You never know I might order another one. You know for stress relief!
Are you going to the Tulsa Heatwave? I will be there sweating it out.
Jason
I'd like to go, but it looks like I'm working the weekend of. I'd go up Sunday, but it's mostly over with by then. Greg re-kitted his, but I don't think he's flown it more than a couple times since he turned the original one to confetti. Are you bringing it down to heatwave with you?

The bipe does look good in the air though. I do have a saito 100 that could use a good home also. I'll have to take a closer look. Maybe I can get traded out and make it up Saturday.

150flyer 07-17-2009 04:58 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
1 Attachment(s)
More in-flight pictures.

jpjamie 08-29-2009 01:52 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
I'm saving up for this one...looks fantastic! Got an OS .91 waiting for it.

jpjamie 08-29-2009 02:01 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos?

Jason 3-Danhakl 08-31-2009 09:22 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: jpjamie

Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos?
Not a problem. I am using a Futaba 7c radio which is somewhat limited in mixing functions for a 4 servo wing and dual elevator servo airplane.
I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors.
Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you.
Jason

jpjamie 09-02-2009 07:49 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl



ORIGINAL: jpjamie

Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos?
Not a problem. I am using a Futaba 7c radio which is somewhat limited in mixing functions for a 4 servo wing and dual elevator servo airplane.
I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors.
Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you.
Jason
Thanks Jason...perfect!
The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad?

One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know!

Jason 3-Danhakl 09-03-2009 10:25 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: jpjamie


ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl



ORIGINAL: jpjamie

Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos?
Not a problem. I am using a Futaba 7c radio which is somewhat limited in mixing functions for a 4 servo wing and dual elevator servo airplane.
I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors.
Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you.
Jason
Thanks Jason...perfect!
The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad?

One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know!
If you are going to use a non Lithium battery I would go with the newer 2/3 C 1600 mha 6 volt nimh's. Hydrimax has one that really works good. About the same weight as a 2100 Lipo with Reg.
I would mount the engine exactly like the manual states. The CG will be much easier to hit that way.
Jason

jpjamie 09-03-2009 10:02 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl



ORIGINAL: jpjamie


ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl



ORIGINAL: jpjamie

Jason:
Could you give us all some details as how you (plugged in etc.) wired the aileron servos?
Not a problem. I am using a Futaba 7c radio which is somewhat limited in mixing functions for a 4 servo wing and dual elevator servo airplane.
I turned on the Flaperon function and then used a Y on the top and bottom wing. So the bottom two servos are Y'd into the Aileron channel. The top two servos are Y'd into the Flap Channel. As I'm sure you know powering more than two servos from the same channel is not a good idea. The connectors can't safely handle the current. So doing it this way gets the load divided across two connectors.
Just make sure you get the linkage mechanically correct and centered with the wing tip and you will have no problems. I already mentioned this but you don't need much aileron throw at all. Also the Rudder is stupid effective so max throw on Rud is not needed either. I have no idea what the throw measurments are. I have been fine tuning to my liking in the air. Hope this helps you.
Jason
Thanks Jason...perfect!
The suggestion was aslo made I should run each aileron servo from a separate channel because of the current issue. If I can get my JR 9303 to mix this all up I may try it but I feel (and as your flight history demonstrates) using Y's will work just fine and way simpler! The instructions also mention using a voltage regulator and lithium-ion battery for power and voltage regulation. Would I need this or could I get by with a large capacity nicad?

One last thought. I have a U-Can-Do with a OS .91 installed. Wondering if I can just unbolt the mount and bolt it on the firewall on this bipe!? I doubt it, because of the firewall to spinner clearance issue, but you never know!
If you are going to use a non Lithium battery I would go with the newer 2/3 C 1600 mha 6 volt nimh's. Hydrimax has one that really works good. About the same weight as a 2100 Lipo with Reg.
I would mount the engine exactly like the manual states. The CG will be much easier to hit that way.
Jason
Used a Hydrimax before and they work well, so thanks for the reminder and mounting the engine exactly as the manual states IS the way to go. That big Hydrimax will allow me to pick a CG location I like. I dislike the "split main" landing gear. The two - one bolt pattern more than likely takes care of the rotation issue with this kind of main gear, but let me know if you notice any problems.

Just checked the instructions for the firewall to spinner distance and it is 5 5/8" from the firewall to spinner. Checked my U-Can-Do and the same distance is 5 6/8", so I'm just off by 1/8" inch! Will have to "weight" and see how the CG works out and check the spinner fit. Of course the engine mount to firewall (bolt pattern) may be entirely different....duh! Just trying to save time and work.

rhd-RCU 09-03-2009 10:56 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.

jpjamie 09-03-2009 11:03 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

ORIGINAL: rhd-RCU

I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.
Thanks for this! I figured there was more than one way to do this setup. I'm currently flying a single wing aircraft with the same setup and having fun with the flaperons, so will just "Y" this bipe like you suggest.

nmking09 09-04-2009 07:27 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever.

jpjamie 09-04-2009 08:33 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

ORIGINAL: nmking09

The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever.

Thanks nmking09! Great information!
Retooling engine mount patterns these days doesn't make cents...but "UCD" makes more sense than typing out U-Can-Do!

jpjamie 09-04-2009 08:52 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: 150flyer

Built mine last week and have about eight flights so far. I agree the roll rate it super-charged (about four rolls per second on high rate). There is a huge range for the recommended CG. Right now, I am in the middle of the range and the plane handles much better than my original full forward range. I will continue to shift the CG aft until I no longer care for the flight characteristics.

The engine is an OS .75 AX. It has great vertical and pulls out of a hoover easily. I still have a few more flights before I lean the engine for full power but for now I'm extremely happy with this engine for this plane.

The other Reactor in the picture with two is a friends who mounted a Zenoa G20 with a 17 inch prop. It flys a little heavier but has impressive speed and vertical climb-out.
150flyer
I flew an aircraft today with a buddies OS .75 AX and was impressed with the power! I like the way you side mount it with the muffler on the bottom spewing the exhaust "mess" on the underside. I've got an OS .91 four stroke, which (according to a posting here) will bolt (mount + engine) right on this bipe's firewall after removing it from my U-Can-Do, but appreciate the "simplicity" of 2 strokin even tho it's a bit messier.

150flyer 09-05-2009 08:30 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.

I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.

sekkenes 09-09-2009 05:20 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
150flyer,
I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one?

Regards, Yngve

jpjamie 09-10-2009 04:40 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: 150flyer

The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.

I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.
OK but were you rolling LEFT or RIGHT! Just having fun! Thanks 150flyer for this interesting information.

150flyer 09-11-2009 07:18 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: sekkenes

150flyer,
I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one?

Regards, Yngve
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXARP9&P=0

sekkenes 09-11-2009 08:04 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Thanks, 150flyer. Ordered just now. :)

jpjamie 09-14-2009 11:09 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8" Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as "tight" a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.

150flyer 09-15-2009 12:25 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
You could try longer screws that would come far enough through the blind nuts to be able to put an extra nut to act as a locknut.

Jason 3-Danhakl 09-15-2009 03:42 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: jpjamie

This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
I have been using the stock provided screws. But I don't have to take the airplane apart to get into the vehicle. If I did have to take it apart this would be the solution.
Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting.
The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times.
Jason

jpjamie 09-16-2009 10:47 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl



ORIGINAL: jpjamie

This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
I have been using the stock provided screws. But I don't have to take the airplane apart to get into the vehicle. If I did have to take it apart this would be the solution.
Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting.
The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times.
Jason
Thanks for this!


JoeyCoates 09-21-2009 09:41 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks

rhd-RCU 09-21-2009 10:19 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
VERY GOOD CHOICE.

Jason 3-Danhakl 09-24-2009 12:54 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: JoeyCoates

Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks
Mine has a .91 OS Surpass with a 14x6. It has strong pull out but not rocket. I have no doubt the YS91ac will have plenty of power.

malcolmm 10-03-2009 11:44 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.

The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?

Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12" from each top aileron servo, then another 12" from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.

Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18" or 24" into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.


frankeldan 10-28-2009 12:39 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: malcolmm

I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.

The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?

Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12'' from each top aileron servo, then another 12'' from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.

Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18'' or 24'' into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.


Did you finish your's yet? I'm interested to know how it performs with the Rimfire.80. I have a Saito FA-100 for mine but haven't installed it as yet. Still deciding if I should go electric with this project.

Later,

Dan

captainpitts-RCU 11-09-2009 06:33 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Ok guys gotta ask. I have a 100 2 stroke sitting here do ya think its too much?

steinywi 11-09-2009 07:52 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Any thoughts on the FG-14cc Saito.
Plane is built and ready to go just needs motor looking for a gasser!

Bdegan 11-09-2009 08:28 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix :D
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]

wind junkie 11-10-2009 08:13 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

ORIGINAL: Bdegan

Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix :D
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]
Wow, I really like your thinking Bdegan. I have some 5S and 6S 5000 packs that won't get used this winter otherwise, so this could be a great excuse for me also. I recently checked the fit of the fully assembled plane into my ponticac grand am and it fits easily with the rear seat folded down.

Which motor wind are you getting and from where (also which prop?) I just visited the NeSail site and all options seem to require 10S:

http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=4886

Have you used (or seen) your intended power combo used on an 8 lb 3D plane before? I was thinking of outfitting an OMP Fusion with electric power for the winter months, but that plane has considerable field assembly and the one piece nature of this plane is a very attractive option. Using magnets for the battery hatch will really simplify cold weather field access also.

Also, I"m curious will you be using skis or do you have access to a plowed/paved runway? You get snow up there too, don't you? If this works out I would order an extra set of gear for mine and put wheel pants for mud flaps and then quick change to another set with skis when the snow comes.

Bdegan 11-10-2009 08:39 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
I plan to use this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7070]Motor[/link]
For a prop I am looking at something between 16x8 or 16x10. Maybe a 17x8.

We get snow [:'(]
I usually fly with skis, and a small ski on for the tail from a park flyer. Works fantstic.
Even if it is only a light dusting over the grass.

wind junkie 11-10-2009 09:02 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Ok, that's certainly cheap enough to experiment. I thought you were going with a Hacker (which is an awesome choice, but more expensive so it pays to know exactly what you're getting).

I don't have much experience in large(r) glow/electric conversions in this size range so I like to know the power and instant thrust available beforehand for this weight. One thing I did learn is that for 3D the thin electric props are often NOT a good choice cause they cavitate and/or twist when overloaded so they mostly just make noise when you punch them. That would be a new prop size for me too as I normally use a 6" pitch on my glo birds for 3D.

Keep us posted on your progress. I'll do the same if I can get my act together and finish some other projects now on the bench.

Bdegan 11-10-2009 09:36 AM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
For .40 and .60 size planes, these cheap chinese motors are doing pretty good. Lots of positive feedback.
For a larger high dollar investment like the Giant Reactor or any other 50cc bird, I went with a proven platform in the Castle HV110 and Hacker A60. The larger ( 50cc ) size cheaper electric motors are still having issues with throwing magnets. Also quite a few have a bad design in how the prop is bolted on. Its to easy to overtighten the prop bolt and pull the shaft in the motor causing the bearings to take a side load they were not designed to take. Ultimately, causing failures in a very very short time.
With the price of LiPo's falling faster than our economies, .40 and .60size planes are now more cost effective to set up electric than with glow engines and fuel.

wind junkie 11-10-2009 12:11 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Oh, ok. You had me confused. I dind't realize the "giant" reactor was this plane: (NOT the bipe):

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...ReactorGP.html

That's why I was curious why you picked such a big (and expensive) motor for what I thought was this 60 size bipe.

I just saw your other thread and note you you were running two of your 6S packs in series on that Giant reactor.

Bdegan 11-10-2009 12:55 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 


ORIGINAL: wind junkie

Oh, ok. You had me confused. I dind't realize the ''giant'' reactor was this plane: (NOT the bipe):

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...ReactorGP.html

That's why I was curious why you picked such a big (and expensive) motor for what I thought was this 60 size bipe.

I just saw your other thread and note you you were running two of your 6S packs in series on that Giant reactor.
Sorry, [sm=red_smile.gif] didn't mean to confuse.

xinther 11-12-2009 07:47 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Anyone have any pix or know how an OS 75 + slimline Q Pitts muffler fit in this plane? I want to minimize chopping the cowl.

I have tried to extrapolate by looking at pix on these forums but, man, it is a close call.

TIA,
Carlos





fanoffive0 11-12-2009 10:54 PM

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 
Here is what I have on my Reactor with a Saito 82. Did not have to cut much.

http://www.pspec.com/results.asp?category=4



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