fliggyg, your on the right track with the tristock installed vertically in the corners. What I have done is to add one more dowell between the two existing ones and it ends up very strong. Mine averages about 250 flights per season X three years off a rough runway and its fine. Not over done, but strong enough for the ocassional spanking. There is only one reason why I would not glue wood blocking in between the formers. I have snapped the tee nuts, or blind nuts, for the bolts and you may need to get in there and replace them. With tall LG as these, it does increase the chances of a misshap, but you will find that this plane floats in so gently, chances are you won't knock them off. There are UCDs out there running stock without problems.

For the pinned hinges, a metal nail file works well on the hinge slots. A couple strokes in/out and its good. Also the file will straighten out any slots that are out of allignment by angleing the file in the direction it needs to be corrected. Dry fit all surfaces and check for binding. Epoxy works well with hinges of this type. IF you are quick and confident, 15 minute. If you are unsure of what you can accomplish, go 30 minute epoxy to play it safe. I do the wings and stabs first and when dry do the control surfaces.

Take a hobbby knife and cut away a small amount of monokote from around the hinge slot.

Dip the knuckle of the hinge in oil so the glue dosen't stick to it. You can use a CA hinge to stuff the epoxy into the slots to make sure its sufficiantly coated. Do one section or surface at a time, check for alignment and move to the next section.

Lately on larger gassers I have been useing gorilla glue for the hinges, but if this is your first experience use epoxy.

Here is a pick of the cut away around the slot and a typical 4/40 set up. Good luck. Joe