Too bad about not being e-capable. But maybe not..... there are others... just spend more money.

Tonight was completion of the elev. servo/control setups. Many of you may be familiar with my fixation on slop-free nylon to nylon control interface points. To achieve this, I use the Sullivan 566 Control Takeoff on the movable surface, and the stock nylon JR arms on servos. Finished with Goldberg Nylon 2-56 clevises, the result is slop-free, solid, and relatively low friction control setups that stand the test of time. There are examples out there of mine probably with 700 or more flights, and still original nylon parts.

Anyway - some pics tell the story, along with a narrative about the stab marking, cutout, lining of the opening, etc.

The 3421SA's mount in the stab, vertically, output shaft forward, The stock arm is used, .5 shaft center to clevis attach. Perpendicular to the hinge line, draw a line 1" outboard of the root end of the STAB, extend this line on the elevator (ply hardmount plate), and along the stab (centerline for "box" for servo). About 1/8" in front of the front of the stab tube, mark the opening.... it is a smidge over 9/16 wide, and 1 5/16" long. Cutout the sheeting ONLY. Pry off sheeting. Remove foam all the way to the
top sheeting.

The cable will come out the forward end, so cut a hole in the root rib (it's soft balsa) to let you go through and grab the servo lead. In the cutout, remove a little more foam, then install vertical grain 1/16" sheeting on the AFT end of the servo cutout, and on the OUTBOARD side. The edge of the box lining sheeting should just clear UNDER the bottom sheeting, glue with gorilla glue (polyurethane). This ties the top and bottom sheeting together both chord-wise, and spanwise (at the tube). Very strong.

Gently cut and remove covering only - without cutting sheeting - about 1/4" around the "ends" of the cutouts. Make up 1/8" hard AC ply screw mounts, thick CA to the front and rear on the outside of the sheeting where you removed the covering.

What I do next is not needed, but I like the psych comfort.... on both "outboard" ends of the little ply strips that the servo screws will go into.... CAREFULLY drill a 3/32 " through the ply and sheeting. STOP. Now, using 3/32 sharpened TUBING, cleanly bore out the foam all the way to the TOP sheeting. Fill this hole with gorilla glue, then 3/32" dowel pieces. Effectively, you end up with four "corner" pins that tie the servo mount ply pieces to the sheeting, through the foam, then all the way to the TOP sheeting. Ain't NUTHIN' gonna get sloppy in this setup.

The "setback" for the jig is 5/16" from the edge of the elev. leading edge angle. Adjusted for perpendicular to chordline, pilot drilled, then drilled through with 1/8", thin CA the hole. When cured, drive the 6-32 SS Sullivan screw flush with top surface. On bottom, put drop of permanent loctite on threads, then tighten down reversed 6-32 blind nut.

Thread on the nylon control takeoff, measure with elev. neutral to hinge centerline, mark, and drill with 1/16". That's it.
Install the 2-56 Stainless thread rod/nylon clevises, adjust and it's good for life.