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Old 04-14-2006, 06:26 PM
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J_Bone
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

ORIGINAL: pilotwings119

I was FINALLY able to get the diff spring in today, but it didn't help much. I had to take out those 6 balls and 1 washer that sit on the end of the screw (head end) inside the right outdrive and put the stock plastic T-nut back in, and the screw finally engaged with the T-nut. The screw kept coming loose though all day.. I constantly had to stop and tighten it. But about an hour ago I put a bunch of threadlock on the end of the screw and inside the T-nut, so hopefully it'll dry and work better from now on. If not, I don't know what I'll do.. probably just cry. I'm hoping to try and race for the first time tomorrow or next week.

I had some odd and frustrating problems today. While I was at the track, a couple rod ends and thin nuts kept coming out on my hard noobish landings. After threadlocking most of them, it seemed to do the trick. Next I went over to the elementary school playground to do some dirt pile jumping where I had more problems.. Along with the diff screw problem (kept coming loose), I had two other problems. First, the throttle servo went completely dead out of nowhere. So I had to replace that with my spare Futaba S3003, and I was back in business. Then, I had my first runaway. The battery plug came out on a hard landing, and it just took off. LUCKILY, it was only going about 1/4th throttle, so I was able to run and catch up to it pretty fast.

I hope tomorrow goes better!
You need those washers too!! [X(] When installed correctly, I've never had any problems with my diff once it was broken in. Which is 1 to 2 tanks. The rod ends wear out adn that's part of the beast with rod ends. I use captured end where ever I can. Captured ends are on the bottom of your shocks..