OK.

Been there done that wasted cash blah blah but if you want me to write it anyway......

u need to do a few things to get it competitive. I'll start with the cheap easy ones then go forward.

Remove the reciever box and the battery box, drill 4 holes in the rear bumber and use zipties thru those holes to hold the battery in, even better use a new rechargable battery. this saves 70 grams ( just weighted them ).

Next, servo tape that reciever to the lower chassis just in front ot the fuel tank. (lower centre of gravity).

Tyres of course if you havnt got new ones, ask around and buy race tyres just for the track ONLY. dont use them anywhere but at the track, and dont get proline step pins for ur first ones as they WILL wear out in minutes.

getting a new engine ( whatever happens the pro 15 isnt really raceable, without a backplate anyway ) is the next step, or at least making it a bump start and a little porting to get it a bit quicker ( it just doesnt have the punch needed ).

Now you have saved a LOT of weight.

A full set of ball bearings are also necessary for speed, without them it will NOT go quick and will be inconsistant.

Now being offroad you really need shocks that are up for the job, and the sports just wont cut it. The duratrax evader shocks are nice and easy to use, and work pretty well.

Next are shock towers, you will need new ones , they can be easily cut out of some aluminium from a local hardware, cut with a jigsaw and a little filing. you will need a drill etc for this. the front needs to be much the same except the mounting holes at the top for the shocks need to be 30mm apart, this brings the shocks further away from the arms and makes much better geometry for weight transfer on the new generation groomed tracks. the rear needs to be the same except for the shock will be 10mm further out on each side and it will be a total of 10mm taller.

I whacked a RC10GT fuel tank in mine but it was for accuracy and sealing, and the race look but thats just me.

Next go with a Robinson Racing T-maxx steel spur and slipper setup, the stock slipper just doesnt cut it. and an 18 or 17 tooth clutch bell, stock gearing is too high for the pro 15 or the 12 you will put in it...

a ball dif isnt necessary and the stock diff is SUPER tough and will NEVER need maintaining.

Cut out sections of the unnecesarily huge top deck but leave it well braced, i have crashed mine very fast head on into a gutter and its the lower chassis that breaks not the top. and add a few steel screws all over with nuts to toughen it up a LOT.

Finally a radio upgrade is going to hel a lot. a computer radio with EPA and EXP will help a lot. a metal gear steering servo that has a lot more torque than stoc will help smooth out the steering for you.

Then its off to the track for suspension tuning and the sport will be a competitive little beast that can keep with the best of them ( its amazing to see it i know. ) and better yetyou can laugh at the guys with losi's etc and your truck will look the madest most beasty thing out there. But you could just buy a GT or similar, but in the end this will end up a slightly harder to drive very quick race car that is FAR tougher than anything else out there.

Have fun, at least try the cheap easy weight saving tips there if not anything else.

Dann