This probably looks crude to many, but it works.

Attaching the second piece of sheeting is a little tricky. The first is easy because the whole wing can be pinned to the board and jig and the pins are easily removed after. The wing cannot be pinned completely to the board and jig for the second piece of sheeting because the pins would then be left inside the wing.

Thanks to Mike Hester for the following method!

The wing is placed on the jig (pattern for the jig is on the plans) and only the spars are pinned to the board at each end. Two hour epoxy (yes, 2 hour!--available from Central RC) is then brushed on the ribs etc. The sheet is then placed and weighted on aft part of the chord, behind the spar. Pins hold the front of the sheeting down and are placed in light lines marking the location of the ribs that were made beforehand.

I used two hour epoxy to give myself plenty of time to apply it, which takes a good 20 minutes, and to pin the sheeting down.

I used 60 minute epoxy for the first pieces of sheeting, but barely had time to get it done. The epoxy began to set as I was putting the sheeting in place. Ninety minute might work for the first piece, but the two hour lets me relax and not rush. I recommend it.

This is my second panel. I used this technique on the first one and it appears to be very straight. It just takes a little care and patience. It would be nice to have a more sophisticated way to weight down the wing!

Since there are other people following this and building the plane, I'll copy Mike Hester's complete response to my question as to how to do this:

"Second skin is a trick. I place the wing on the jig and line it up, and then pin the extra spar material to the bench/board. Yep only 2 pins keep it in place. if you cut your spars off, just put the pins in at an angle.

Make SURE the surface is straight. At this point I place a metal straight edge under the trailing edge between the jig and wing. run a long bar sander down the wing so everything is even. When you apply the skin, pin down the spar first, then use a large straight edge (I have a huge level I use for this step) and "rake" it slowly towards the trailing edge. I then leave the trailing edge sanwiched between the straight edge and the level until the glue sets. weight it down and pin the crap out of it (the area behind the spar) and then have someone hold the trailing edge weight down while you secure the leading edge. use about 928561238563987623587236598256 pins (heh) and let it dry.

Be sure to check frequently that nothing has twisted, shifted, moved, warped, etc. And I assure you that wing will be straight. So far I've built 14 Typhoon panels and every one was straight. Just pay attention and go slow. Use 2 hour epoxy for that second skin, that way you have plenty of working time (and a hell of a stick!).

Cya,
-Mike