I usually have used 30 minute epoxy (devcon) with good but messy results. I recently tried CA to put my hinge points in. I have a H9 1/4 scale Cap, and believe it or not, there is enough meat to hold the hinge point, without adding wood blocks. Anyway, I drilled the holes for the hinge points, removed the covering from the bottom of wing. After having the hingepoints posistioned, I then used thin CA from the inside of the wing panel, and applied directly to the "barbed" area that was sticking out inside the wing panel. The thin CA, penetrated the entire hinge barb, but did not get on the flexing or pivet part. After letting the thin CA dry, I then added some epoxy over the CA area, and I truly believe, these hinges will never come out! I experimented on a piece of balsa with a hinge point and CA. I could not come close to pulling it back out! I had to use a pair of plyers and twist it, only breaking the hinge! I must admit, this is my first experiment, and I would not suggest using CA from the outside! In other words, do not install the hinge point, and add CA right at the pivot point. IT WILL STICK IT UP! If you can remove the bottom covering, and have access to the hinge from inside the surfaces, you will be good to go! (using CA will allow you to keep your points in alignment immediately, without the fear of bumping them while waiting on the epoxy to dry! Just make sure each one is aligned as you go!)

I also have an H9 1/3 scale that Im hinging with the points. Im using the devcon 30 minute epoxy, with balsa filler mixed within. The reason being, it makes it less runny! When you have your flying surface ready to fill with epoxy, gravity takes effect, and some or most epoxy drops inside the surface to be hinged. What I usually do is drop epoxy with filler into the holes, get a good fill, and then wipe clean. While keeping the holes with the epoxy mix facing the workbench, I allow the hingepoints to dry this way. This is the only good way I have found to keep the epoxy where I want it! ON the barbs! So in otherwords, with the hinges in place, turn the surface hinge side down to the bench and allow gravity to keep the epoxy on the hinge barbs! I also use a straight edge to check alignment of my pins! It is a bit tedious, but well worth the effort! Good luck!

Oh one other thing, I install the hingepoints flush but not sunken into the trailing edge of the surface. The pivot is almost completely protruding from the trailing end of the surface. Next, I ream out the top of the holes in the leading edge of the surfaces to be mounted to ie. ele, ail rud ect. with a dremel tool. This allows the pivot to counter sink into the leading edge, and while glueing I separate the two halves (wing/ail ect.) with 1/32" balsa. This allows a small gap between the two surfaces, but not excessive! This also allows for a more free movement up and down! On larger models, of course this small gap will be sealed anyway! (I ALWAYS GLUE THE HINGE POINTS TO THE TRAILING EDGES OF THE WING, STAB, FIN ect. FIRST! ONCE DRY, I THEN GLUE TO THE SURFACES ie. AILERON, ELEVATOR, RUDDER. THIS ALLOWS GREATER CONTROL IN GLUING!)