I do the same thing as TLH101. I drill the hole and use the tapered end of a file to ream or taper the hole a bit.

I ground the barbs off of a few hinge points. (edit: this is an old trick - I did not invent this). I use these to test fit the hole - to make sure I tapered the hole enough and the hinge will go in square.

I also sink the hinge into the leading edge of the control surface. I drill the hole, use a small round file to create half moon shaped recess, taper the hole, test the fit with a "barbless" hinge point.

I use white glue to set the hinge. The white glue causes the balsa to swell in around the barbs. There is no way to pull the hinge out once the glue dries. I did a test hinge with two hinge points and some 1/4" balsa - nobody could pull it apart - you will smash the balsa first.

MHawker is definitely correct. There has to be enough wood to grab the barbs. Also the glue does not stick to the hinge point. I used hinge points on a kit I built - I purposely added wood at the hinge locations so I could use the hinge points. For an ARF - one would have to modify the hinge areas so the hinge points would grip. For this reason - I have never used them on an ARF - too much work.

By the way - I think we all will agree - hinge points are a pain in the neck to install. I think they are super strong. Once they are installed - you will not regret it. But they are a pain in the neck to install.

Also - I tend to have a bit of a gap when using hinge points. For this reason, I seal the hinge gaps. This too is a pain in the neck because the hinge points get in the way. Again, I think its worth the pain. I will probably use these on every kit I build. I will probably use a flat hinge of some type on every ARF I build.

Moses

edit: added some text - accidentally posted the message before I was done.