RE: What happen to Falcon Trading Co?
This is how I converted my Aerobat to a bolt-on wing configuration. There are probably easier ways to do and this approach may be overkill for a 40 size model, but it has worked fine for me on the Aerobat and several other models. I originally got this idea from a web article by Stefan Vorkoetter about converting a Sig LT-25 to a twin electric.
(1) Epoxy a 1/8" AC ply plate to the front side of the LE former, pre-drilled with a 3/8" hole for the wing dowel.
(2) Make up a new center section rib for the wing dowel to attach to by tracing the front section (say back to the main spar) of the wing airfoil onto a piece of 1/8 AC ply. Add a tab to the bottom of the rib before cutting out on a band saw or scroll saw. You could make the entire rib out of the AC ply, but I used 1/8 balsa from the main spar back.
(3) When epoxying the two wing halves together, sandwich the new center rib between them...I think I glued the rib to one half and let it cure before joining the two wing halves. Also, I used slow set epoxy so I had plenty of time to fuss with the alignment.
(4) Cut a 1/8 slot in a piece of 3/8 dowel. I used my bandsaw and cut the slot before cutting the dowel to length to keep my fingers out of harm's way! Cut the dowel to length and chamfer the front end. You want the slot to fit fairly tight on the ply tab to make the next step easier.
(5) Slide the dowel onto the ply tab and mount the wing on the fuse, inserting the dowel through the plate you added to the former. Align the wing and put reference marks on the wing TE and adjoining fuse surface. Carefully remove the wing, trying not to disturb the dowel. Mark the position of the dowel on the ply tab and then glue in place with slow set epoxy. Re-mount the wing, align the reference marks and weight it down so it stays put.
(6)After the dowel has set, remove the wing and epoxy in two hardwood blocks for the wing bolts. Measure for block centers and transfer to upper surface of wing TE. Re-mount and align wing, tape or pin in place so it doesn't move and drill through the TE and blocks with a #7 drill. Remove wing and tap blocks with a 1/4-20 tap. Clearance the wing holes to 1/4" for the bolts. On my Aerobat, the balsa used for the TE was rock hard, so I didn't add a ply bolt plate. Also, I soaked the holes in the wing with thin CA (as well as the threads in the blocks).
Anyway, this has worked out very well and is far easier to deal with than rubber bands!
P.S. You can see in the pix below that the dowel on mine is angled downward. I positioned the hole in the former plate a little lower than I should have...purely cosmetics as it works just fine as is.
I'm sure you could have figured this all out just from the pictures, but I thought the step by step would be helpful. Good luck.
Bob