I will try to help on each of your questions. I am still asking many questions myself at the track and will convey to you what I have learned. If your track is dusty, packed and slick it is like our track. Most are like this. We have a great group of guys that run on our track and I believe it is one of the best in North Carolina.

Okay, here is what I have been told to do: 3f,7c,1r diff fluid. This combined with the cutting of the top a-arm in front where it meets the shock tower by at least 2mm and use of ackerman steering plate you will most likely get rid of most of the push entering the turns. Remember to put an extra 2mm shim on the hinge pin up front to compensate for the cutting of the a-arm. I have also been told and will follow this advice of how to setup the shocks. Put 40 in front and 35 in rear with the black Sportwerks springs. Set your preloads on your shocks to axle levels. Run 2 degrees camber all around. The rear has a standard 3 degree toe in due to the toe block. The front should be adjusted to 1 degree toe out. I put my roll center in the inner most bottom hole in the rear shock tower. Continue to use your sway bars.
I left my rear hubs with the 2.43mm shims on each side on the outer bottom hinge pin. I also left my rear turnbuckle connected at stock postion on the rear hubs.
Now for shock location I put it on the outermost hole on each bottom a-arm. and put the top of shocks in the outer bottom holes at top of tower. That is my preference and many others will give suggestions. Test it out and see what works for you.
I like the JP1 pipe. It seems to give the Sportwerks .21 more grunt on take off. I also run Mugen 1.0 springs with standard Mugen carbon shoes. I tried the Mugen teflon shoes but found them to not give me the initial quickness for the jumps.
As far as starter box I use the XTM that was complete with motor and battery. The battery didn't hold a full charge on race day so be conservative with your gel cell battery if you get the XTM box.