Thanks for pointing out that I didn't write that, I only posted it in hopes of helping others out. I have used the methods in the write up and they work well, but as you stated, I would worry about doing it with hotter motors. I have only done it with 20-27t motors. I would even worry about a good 19t. I also just tighten the diff down all the way and loosen the slipper until a wheelie disappears. With the exception of that little part of the write-up, I think it is a pretty good one and does a good job of describing how to adjust the tranny. I am sure someone could write up a better one too and include the info on changing out the plastic idler and the using the b2 nylon gear.
Later
Duneslider
ORIGINAL: Flyojumper
Since we are on the subject of that write up (originally posted on the hobby talk forum I believe but later reposted there ==>
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/diff.html), I must say I have mixed feelings about it.
I originally used it when I got my evader with the stock motor but it always felt a little "dangerous" and very "tranny taxing" in the back of my mind...
I wouldn't dare try it with my GTB BL combo now though.
If you think about it, when you do that, the whole starting torque of the motor is going straight into the tranny and onto the teeth, with no way out but the slipper. It doesn't mimic any regular use condition and the tranny stress could be huge if the motor is strong enough. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some people break idler teeth or warp their gearbox slightly by doing that with a powerful motor.
I think a much safer way to do it is to tighten the diff all the way and then loosen the slipper progressively until all wheelies disappear and the slipper slips for only a few feet.