Well, first, don't blame the paint if it runs. That's your fault. Second, If you're talking about Lustercoat, yes it does suck. It takes forever to dry and according to some once that happens it is actually fuel proof, but we're talking about weeks (I've heard). I used the clear one time and it took about 2 months before I felt it was hard enough and it wasn't fuel proof at that point.

If you want a really good paint job then you mist on a light coat and let if flash. By light I mean so light that you can see the individual specks of paint on the primer and the coat is much more primer color than paint color.

Do that 2 more times about 10 minutes between coats. That should give you an even base coat but not an opaque base coat.

Next spray a light coat that is slightly heavier than the mist coats. Give that 20-30 minutes to flash. Don't be impatient. Repeat until you have the opacity you want.

You should never spray a coat so heavy that it can run regardless of how "thin" the paint it. Paint doesn't run because it's thin. It runs because too much was applied.

I mixed cub yellow using a couple drops of red in an ounce of yellow to get a close approximation. The exact colors and amount depend on the paint. Klass Kote (what I used) already has some red in the yellow - it's not a true yellow - so I didn't need to add much red.

Cub yellow is golden yellow which is on the yellow side of orange.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler..._piper_j3_cub/