The canopy glue will work fine. I used 5-min epoxy. A neat little trick is to use a safety pin to poke numerous small cavities into the wood through the covering to allow the glue to bond to something other than the Ultracote...

On the spinner adapter...

I purchased a 5/16" fine thread stud and replaced the bolt that came with the Taurus engine. I then purchased the appropriate Tru-Turn spinner adapter. Much nicer setup than the stock bolt...

The fuel line known, as medium to gassers is best served on this engine and tank assembly. Be sure you purchase and use a "gasser" tank stopper. The are various grades and or qualities of fuel tubing used for gasser's. Silicone is an absolute "no-no". Tygon the yellow stuff is very popular, not the best, however. There are a few products offered by others such as Prather and Aerotrend that are far superior. Another nice trick when building a gasser tank is too use a filter clunk that is typically used and sold by mower repair shops. These have a heavy weight and felt surrounding the clunk. They are very desirable for our applications. Around $3.00 a piece. Weed eaters use them.

Another worthwhile gadget offered by Dubro when building gas tanks is the fuel line ferrule or barbs they are offered in two sizes. These neat little doodads are soldered in place over the brass tube to prevent the fuel line from slipping off. You can also use the next size up brass tube and make your own fuel line barbs.

Aircraft ply is generally used for the baffles, some use balsa. Epoxy, shoo-goo, PFM, Silicone or whatever is adequate to hold these parts in place.

Rocket City p/n# 69C was used on the ailerons, elevator and rudder on my DPM Extra. A .340 offset is provided to line up the hinge line.