Hi woodscra:

I bet the JB Weld would work, but I wouldn't put anything in the tank, or that is in contact with gas, that could come off. I do something a bunch simpler that works well. I take an x-acto blade and score the brass tubing at a backward angle in several places all around the tubing(mini barbs)....and of course clamp the tubing too. BTW, I've used the small plastic ties too, but they don't clamp as uniformly, or as tightly as safety wire.

Hi Paul:

>>I assume you remove the throttle spring so as to not put a load on the servo

I didn't. It's a really light spring and it provides a safety back up in case the throttle linkage comes undone.

>> and remove the idle stop so you can kill the engine with the transmitter if need be.

Yes.

>>After installing the engine, the pitts muffler is very close to the underneath motor box.

I had to cut away the bottom of the box to clear my muffler, but if it clears at all, it will be fine. It won't get hot enough on the muffler can to burn anything.

>>Also, after looking at the direction of travel on the choke, it looks like you would have to have a double bellcrank to actuate it from a servo?

Yes. If you want to do a servo actuated one, that is true.

>>Manual looks the way to go. How do you activate yours?

I used a manual setup because I was carried away with saving weight, though a micro servo actuated one would only weigh about an ounce total. Here's a description of how I did my manual one:

I mounted a ball link on the choke arm, then using a 4-40 nylon fitting on the ball I ran a 4-40 threaded rod out the cowl and put a small threaded cap on the end outside the cowl. For putting the cowl on and off I just screw and unscrew the rod out of the nylon fitting on the ball link. You can see the link through the front of the cowl to line it up and I just stick a screw driver up through the bottom of the cowl to keep it pointing in right direct while starting the rod. It might sound complicated, but it actually works quite well and is quick to get on and off.

>>I notice the Champion plug they sent me does not say it is a resister type and I have always heard you should use one?

The one that comes with the engine is a resistor type. You can always tell by the number on the plug. If you have any doubt you can look the number up on a plug chart and it show that it is a resistor type. I think they come with an RCJ7Y which is a resistor plug.

>>Do you use the supplied prop bolt? Have not received my new Tru Turn spinner yet so I don't know what comes with the adaptor kit?

The adapter kit comes with a new bolt a bit longer. Make sure it doesn't bottom when you mount it up. You could shorten it, or add a washer which I did to make sure it doesn't bottom.