ORIGINAL: 1705493-AndyW
Colin,
Further down the Redline site is this,
RL2—Diesel Ignition Improver Concentrate—improves overall performance of diesel machinery, commercial haulage transporters, heavy industrial. Especially beneficial in mining applications. EPA registered & meets environmental standard 40 CFR 79:21. Cold warm-up particulate smoke in tests has been reduced by 59% after RL2 treatment. Increases efficiency, removes water, significantly lengthens injector and pump life, reduces rust.
Diesel Fuel Catalyst—Reduces wear up to 75% compared to untreated fuel. Boosts cetane by 3–7 numbers. Improves fuel efficiency, removes water, lubricates pumps and reduces engine knock. EPA emission tests-reductions 5% in HC, CO up to 17% and smoke up to 18%.
Two products that are worth considering. Also, I just emailed Amsoil AU to see if they offer a cetane booster.
I'm surprised at the prop numbers from PAW but they know their own engines.
Yes, exercise caution with an electric starter till you have the settings close enough for a run. The PAW is relatively easy to start by hand, in my experience. That means flick it by hand till you get those settings. From there, though, the starter is a good idea as long as you put only drops INTO THE INTAKE.
The killer with starters is priming at the exhaust. If you think about it, it makes sense. Priming the intake delivers fuel to the combustion chamber precisely the way it was intended, fully vapourized and ready to ignite. Priming at the exhaust delivers, raw, liquid fuel. No wonder you get hydraulic lock. What happens even when priming at the intake is that as you prime and try again a few times by hand, and don't get a start, most of the ether evaporates but the oil and kero piles up with each attempt. This dilutes your successive primes and things go downhill from there. This is where, in frustration, you take out the starter and proceed to injure the engine.
If you prime at the intake and use the starter from the get go, each attempt blows out most of the prime so that if you don't get a start the first time, not much is left to accumulate and give you a lock up. But if you haven't run diesels in a while, do the hand start thing first, just to be safe.
Hi Andy,
Thanks for the additional info. I'm curious about this talk about Castor not mixing without the ether, as I thought you had tried that and it worked?
PAW's recommended prop sizes are here:
http://www.eifflaender.com/techdets.htm
I suspect the upper end of prop sizes is open ended. Please bear in mind that the smaller size PAWs are commonly used in events like combat and team race, where high revving engines are the norm.
I would not have any issues with putting an 8x4 on my 80DS, or a lower pitch 11" on my 19 if it were appropriate for the flight characteristics of the model. I still think a 9x6 or 9.5x6 master airscrew was the sweet spot for my 19DS - but when I get it in a plane will try a 10x4 to see how I go. For C/L stunt, a large diameter relatively low pitch prop at around the 9000rpm mark seems ideal.
Those other Redline products you point out look interesting. The Redline stuff is locally available - they list a couple of stockists which are only about 5km from where I live (and on the way to my daughter's school).
cheers,
Colin
Re-learning C/L in Brisbane, Australia