Originally posted by TerrellFlyer
Morning Nuker, I look at the 4*'s as a third plane on the learning curve instead of the second. My $.026 worth of saturday morning thinking.
Way off their, turn the controls down and use a plain bearing .40 on the 4* and it's a better primary trainer than most of those listed.
It flys as slow or slower than those listed.
It's just as stable.
It responds much more precisely therefore when a student moves the sticks it moves exactly the same way every time and doesn't have to be lead.
It doesn't self correct so it teaches better. (I haven't seen a self correcting trainer able to self correct before it crashes)
I've taught severl people to fly with a 4* and all have learned as fast or faster than with a typical trainer and were better pilots and crashed less aftewords. (ages 9 to 72). I've take several people who were having trouble on a trainer and put them on a 4* with low throws and they universally said it was easier to fly.
The current dogma says to learn to fly RC model airplanes the best way to start is with a “Trainer” that has a high flat bottom wing with generous dihedral so it self corrects. I believe this is
wrong! I believe the following are the best characteristics for a trainer.
- Flies Slow (light wing loading)
- Flies Very Stable
- Responds to controls in a uniform fashion (Does What it’s told When it’s told the same way every time)
- Inexpensive and easy to repair
Take note, nowhere in that list do I list the type of plane, high wing, low wing, mid, wing shoulder wing, doesn’t make that big a difference as long as it is slow stable responds to it’s controls uniformly. It is an easy task to limit the amount of control to get the control rate at an acceptable level for a beginner.
Nowhere in the list is the term “Self Correcting”. Planes designed to self-correct are harder to fly. If you try to allow them to self correct they will crash long before finish correcting themselves or you fly them so high you can’t tell what the plane is doing. “Self Correcting” also means that you will have to fight the plane to turn up wind, fight the plane to turn it in general. We are teaching people to fly R/C models not guide free flight models. The early days of RC we used modified free flight models. Current
Trainers reflect our free flight heritage.
My experience has shown that people who learn with typical
Trainers all learn in about the same amount of time as somebody who learns with a “Sport” plane. I know a lot of people have successfully learned to fly with Eagle II’s and the like but from what I’ve seen the people who learn with a “Trainer” crash more after they solo, especially when they go to something sportier. After learning with a “Trainer” they pretty much have to re-learn to fly anything else. People who learn with a “Sport” plane learn to fly just as fast, crash less after they solo, and can fly a larger variety of aircraft sooner.
Planes I think make good trainers and that I have successfully taught people to fly with:
- Four Star 40 (probably the best trainer ever!!!)
- American Flyer (ARF)
- Ugly Stick (any of several variations)
- Easy Sport 40
- Airmidillo Trainer
- Sig LT25 (very slow, very responsive, way better flier than LT40)
- Thundar Tiger Wold Trainer 40H (semi-symmetrical high-wing low-dihedral ARF – This one looks like a typical “Trainer” but flies like a typical “Sport” model)
All these planes are very stable, don’t tip stall, can fly very slowly, respond uniformly to controls, and have fairly light wing loading. These characteristics make better trainers than typical
Trainers. Now all we have to do is get instructors to take a critical look at
Trainers. I don’t buy arguments like: “The XYZ trainer has worked great to train zillions of students for years”, or “I learned on a SR. Kadet, so that’s the best trainer”. Doctors used to bleed people that didn’t make it right. With the absolutely dependable radios of today, and buddy cords, we don’t need to learn with glorified free flight models.
Tom Rhodes