TT-01 - This one is different, it's mine
First: I do not have any pics yet because it is still in the box. It will be a week or so before I have it together for pics. The pics will be posted to this thread. The only hop-up I bought are bearings off EBay. I am going to use this for drifting.
My motor:
For those who know me, I mainly run all brushless in most of what I have. For this project I am undecided between my 5200kv Chili Pepper motor or my Hacker C40-6 Turn motor. I will most likely test performance of both.
(Here soon - I might start running brushed motors for a while just for the experience. As I am building my own forward only ESC's for brushed motors)
My ESC:
I will either use MTroniks Genesis Truck ESC or my BK Warrior 9918. Some might ask why the truck ESC, it has a bigger heat sink and there are time that the low turn Hacker motors can draw up to 100 amps.
Batteries:
When I run sub-c cells I always run my Model Electrics Corp - Solderless Power Tubes:
http://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/
I will also try my 3700mah 7.4v LiPo pack. Had some disappointment with this already. I have to dremel the chassis. LiPo's are lighter and hold more volts. But the packs are a bit bigger. I do not like having to dremel out space on a brand new chassis.
NOTE: To start - I am NOT upgrading to an aluminum drive shaft. Will later, but not now. I am not posting this to ask what hop-ups do I need. I am only posting this as a build log of my car. What I am doing and share the experience.
We will also be testing MultiMode Technologies NoiseSink
http://www.multimodetech.com
You may see their adds here on RCU. The NoiseSink is an electromagnetic filter that plugs in between the motor controller and the receiver. As electric drives for RC vehicles have become more powerful, glitching and limited radio range have become increasingly common. They developed the NoiseSink to correct this problem by preventing the dominant cause of glitching - electromagnetic noise generated by the motor and ESC - from entering the receiver. Allowing an increase in range of controlling the RC vehicle. --- I will post my results here in this thread about the product.
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For those who are not familiar with who I am. I am one of your car forum moderators to start. After that I am also a certified machinist. (not by trade, but hobbyist). I have my own setup. Since I have moved back to the US, I am just now getting where I can unpack my equipment. My tranformers should be here next week to allow me to hook up enough power to run the CNC Mill.
[X(][>:] Should be fully setup in a few more weeks from now. I also have a lathe that is not CNC but will be down the road.
Here is an article I did for RCU Magazine:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=467
There you will see pics of my equipment when it was setup at my house that I lived in the UK.
I am currently working on a couple of other articles for RCU Magazine at the moment.
The mill is not that big. Good for small bits, like a-arms, shock towers etc... I am currently building my own CNC Router as a DIY project for milling/routing parts size of a 1/5 scale chassis. Can't wait till it is finished. Will be a couple/few months.
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This next thing is an offer that will not stay open for a long time. And for those who have to ask "How To" and "What to do" this is
NOT for you, sorry. This is for those who already have experience and understand what I am offering. Because I am not willing to teach anyone CAD/CAM anything.
For those who are experienced with CAD software programs and understand the difference between 2d and 3D drawings - this is for you. Not only is this for a limited time, but there are rules as well, so please read on....
1> I will mill parts from 6061 air craft quality aluminum for free. (I will even pay shipping if the parts test ok and the shipping is in the US)
2> The only parts I will do this for a Tamiya TT-01. (Because I have one and can test the parts before shipping.)
3> I have to be able to open your files in AutoCAD 2005.
4> Everything has to be 2D and NOT 3D. My CNC Mill is only a 3 axis machine. It will be a while before I can do 3D. Think of parts the size of a-arms, motor mounts, battery bar should be able to do but size might be close.
5> If I like what you make, I might produce and use it myself or even pass the files on to others. These can and will most likely be shared on other forums outside of RCU.
6> All measurements have to be metric not SAE. All of my bits are metric.
7> If the drawing is to complicated, you will be required to set all the offset's. Will let you know after seeing the drawing.
8> Do not post if I will make you parts for some other car. As stated in rule # 2, all parts are for a Tamiya TT-01 only.
9> Why do I do this? I get free hop-ups for my car in the process.
10> Remember I do have a real job. So it takes time for me to get things done. Be patient.
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Anyways - I am excited about making my TT-01 into a nice drifter. Can't wait till my lathe is setup to make my own aluminum drive shaft for it.
----- Couple of other good RCU Articles:
Basics of choosing a motor and ESC/MSC and Brushed vs. Brushless Systems
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=505
RCU Forums: Proper Pinion Selection
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=506
How to assemble a Race Pack
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=481