Yep, that stuff has to be perfect. Wherever the control horns takeoff aligns relative to the hinge line for each elevator has to be EXACTLY the same. Having a little differential (control horn takeoff not directly over the hinge line) is not too big of a deal as long as both elevator's cntrol horns are identically offset. That differential can merely lead to getting more up than down or vice versa, which is not good but a manageable situation. If the two control horns are not sitting in the exact same spot relative to the hinge line you are in for a losing battle trying to get the throws to be uniform. Like Bubba said and I agree. It can be really difficult to drill the holes in the hardpoints for Rocket City type control horns. If one is a little tilted and out of line, well things get interesting. I really like the Chip Hyde type control horns because they make it easy to get good alignment over the hingeline, but they are pricey and on the big planes I am a little nervous about the screws pulling out. I would say they are ideal for 30% plane or smaller. Only bad thing is, you are locked in on the distance from the bottom of the control surface to the pivot point. That being said, I think its worth the trouble to measure 10 times and make sure that the drill is lined up right and use the Rocket City or Hangar 9 type control horns. Epoxied into a hard point they are in there forever and totally adjustable.

Im rambling. Bob I am pleased that you got your surfaces all lined up. Its a great feeling to get that mess straightened out.

I know you are a thinker when it comes to this stuff. Just curious, there is another facet to this. Are you already aware of the advantages of using the shortest servo arm and longest control horn you can get away with and still get the max throw you need so you can leave your endpoints maxed out and gain maximum resolution? This is another biggie when it comes to 3D setups, maybe even moreso than pattern. And it is REALLY important on the throttle. Speaking Futaba, you should have you endpoints on the throttle at no less than 120/120 so that you take full advantage of servo resolution. If you are dialed down to 100 or less (of a potential 140 Futaba ATV/Endpoint) your thottle will work, but the transition will be much "jerkier" (is that a word?) and its a lot more sensitive especially in a hover. What it gives you is a setup where one click of throttle up or down does not cause you to rise or sink. It is very smooth and gives you some room to work the throttle. If you get it right you can make very sutble moves on the throttle to really zero in on a spot where the plane will settle into a hover. This is something I did not know until recently, and when I got it right I went from hovering 10-20' off the ground to being comfortable bring it right down to all but a tail touch. It makes a big difference.

For my BME 110 throttle arm, I took a big hitec servo wheel and shaped it to the right length and position so that it was plently long enough to get the resolution I needed and where it would give me linear response. I know lots of guys are making their own arm out of composite materials and carbon fiber sheeting as well.