Well yes, but as usual I will talk in simlpe terms and then let the mechanical engineers clean it up.

A question about the basic setup criteria.

Do you know about setting the control horn heights so that they are at the same height off the aileron relative to the center of the wing. As you know, the wing gets thinner at the tip, so as you move out on the aileron away from the root, the control horns will each be a little higher off of the aileron surface. The inside control horn may be 1/4" off the surface and the outer may be 1/2". It just depends on how far apart the servos are and how much the wing tapers.

Once I get that set I turn on the aileron servos and get the servo arms at or as close to 90 degrees to the hingeline as I can get using the protractors. I will subtrim what I cannot get out.

Then I connect the pushrods to the control horn and servo horn with the aileron centered.

After that I turn off the radio system and move the aileron by hand, adjusting the pushrod lengths until both servos are moving at the exact same deflection per the protractor with the aileron hitting the stops on full deflection up and down. It does not matter if the servo arm move more in one direction as long as both servos move the same. If your control horns are in exactly the same place relative to the servo you can get both servos on each aileron exactly the same. If you have to move one control horn in or out to increase decrease throw at the control surface, you have to move both control horns the exact same amount.

Once you get it perfect, go to the other aileron and using the protractors setup so that you get the exact same deflection on the servos on both wings with the ailerons hitting the stops. And they should match the other aileron.

Once both sides are mechanically identical per the protractors, I turn on the radio system and carefully move the ailerons. LEAVE THE ENDPOINTS AT 140 (or max) Adjust the control horns or servo arm to get the ailerons to move to the maximum deflection you want at max resolution. . It should be pretty easy to change both servos exactly the same. And the same on both ailerons. You have to do this without moving the endoints. They have to be the same. IF you absolutely must reduce teh endpoints, make sure that all of the numbers are the same.

Once you get that then you can make tiny adjustments to the pushrod lengths to get rid of any binding in the servos.
This is where the Rocket City or Hangar 9 titanium turnbuckles (prolinks) come in handy. They allow you to make the smallest changes you want, and you are not limited to 1/2 turn adjustments.

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...s/Hangar9.html

Again, we now use the programmables and its so much easier. You just hookup the control linkages with the control horns set to the right height. Then 1 servo at a time, put the servo arms on, set the center, program the endpoint of the servo and adjust the servo arm control horn to get the max deflection you want. Then go to the other servo and using your notes, setup the deflections the exact same. Adjust the linkage to eliminate the last little bit of binding. Then do the other aileron the exact same using the same servo deflection numbers and go fly.

Figuring out how to use the programmer is the hardest part.


Here we go...