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Before messing with the stab cores and jackets, mark them with felt tip so you know which jacket goes with which core and whether its is a top or bottom surface of the core and whether it is a top or bottom jacket (LH or RH).

Using the bottom half of the stab jackets (or whatever we call the foam bits that are left over when the cores have been removed) as supports (this keeps both halves level...just use paper sheets to shim-up either one so the cores are exactly level with each other (the depth of the jackets are not always the same), mate up the two halves so that you can draw two parallel lines across the joint a distance apart equal to the thickness of your dihedral brace (I used a piece of 3/32 liteply about 4" to 5" Long at about 1/3rd of the way from the stab LE and another brace about 2/3rds the way back from the LE rather than take the chance that I could bore holes for a Carbon tube in the correct direction). You can measure the depth of the core at each brace point (which gives the total depth of the brace at the centreline for each brace. You can (if you like) use trigonometry to calculate the depth at each outer end of the brace at each position or wait till you've cut the slot for them and then measure the depth at the outer end of your brace which should now be shaped like a squashed trapezium. Using the jackets automatically gives you the correct dihedral angle ...ie - none!

Thus, before you sheet the stab, cut the slots as above, check that the braces fit well and don't stick out above (or below) the cores by sanding using protection as described following to protect the cores, then go ahead and skin each stab using the jackets to hold the sheeting in place whilst the glue (or Z-Poxy finishing resin or whatever you are sticking your skins on with) sets off. When all is dry and edges sanded, you can then glue join the two stab halves adding the braces into the resulting slots with a dollop of adhesive, Z-Poxy finishing resin or whatever, whilst then resting on the lower jackets as noted above whilst the glue sets (weight them down so they don't move)

As an aside, before skinning I cut away small pieces of the cores at the TE and replaced these with little blocks of endgrain balsa to receive the hinge points and spaced accordingly. I also added the rear spars to each core (having cut the appropriate amount ... 1/4"...from the core TEs) and the tips ALL before skinning each half. The reason for this was to provide more glueing area for the balsa to balsa joints between skin and spars/tip rib...think about it. The LE spars were added after skinning. Now (IMPORTANT) use masking tape to protect the Cores when sanding these hinge blocks and the Tip and TE . Use the same method over the skins when sanding the LE. You can remove this protection just prior to the last sanding passes to ensure there is no remaining ridge across the joint to be felt. In fact, use masking tape (I use the blue coloured 3M stuff) anytime you don't want your part sanding in the area that you are not directly watching...don't ask me how I know this!

Edit:
It goes without saying that the jackets need protection from any overspill of glue when used as supports...I use the backing film from Solarfilm, Oracover, or whatever...glue doesn't seem to want to stick to this be it resin or cya or whatever

More anon

Cheers