I agree. If you're covering with any of the iron on plastics that have the glue as part of the back surface then just use hinges made from the covering material. A hint though... use a longer than normal sanding block to true up the hinge lines on the surfaces. The hinge line needs to be as truly straight as possible to avoid needless binding or "oil canning".

Using the covering material also has the advantage of sealing the hinge line. Avoiding air leakage lowers drag and on a glider that's a good thing.

If you're not using an iron on covering then you can shoot for the CA hinges. They work well. Another option for a low speed application like this is to use the material from computer floppy discs. Just pry open a disc case and take out the mylar "donut". Leave the magnetic layer on to act as a rough surface to provide the CA with something to bite to. Cut into strips about 5/8 to 3/4 wide and use one hinge every 3 inches or less. You'll need to sand a bevel angle like a >< shape into the stabilizer and elevator when doing it this way. DO NOT use rounded edges for this like )( as they will bind up. And of course the angles do not need to be as sharp as the >< suggests. Just sand then to about a 10 degree angle each side for the elevaotors and about 25 each side for the rudder. That'll give you 20 to 25 degrees on the elevator (and that's pleanty) and a good 50 side to side on the rudder with the inevitable hinge line gaps. You need to leave them about 1/64 open to provide at least a bit of material to flex.


From there you can seal the line from air leaking by flexing the surface fully one way and push a ^ of transparent mending adhesive tape into the gap right down to the hinges.