The reason DSE is trashed on those forums is because you can run SVO or WVO without doing anything to it at all. The kerosene and gasoline do the thinning. Their ingredient is added for their profit not your benefit.

There is a limit to how cool an engine will run reliably. That's why we generally wait for our engines to warm up before we can make any reasonable settings.

Treven the difference in our engines is that vaporization is not part of the timing equation. In an injected diesel timing is adjusted for the delay from when fuel is injected to when it ignites. Part of that time is used up vaporizing the fuel. Hopefully our engines have vaporized the fuel by the time it's near TDC on the compression stroke.

We can't ignore the facts that the fuel needs to vaporize to burn in our engines. This is very different than injected diesels. Injected diesels spray fuel into the combustion chambers as fine droplets. The temperature inside the combustion chambers is far hotter than we will ever see in our engines. For those reasons injected diesels will run on virtually any fuel they are given. The larger the engine, the more this is true. The huge 100,000HP engines used in ships will run on straight crude if they pumped it into the tanks. They normally run on the lowest grade of oils No.6 or something. It has to be heated just to be pumped, yet these huge engines are of the highest efficiency reciprocating engines produced.

Here's my stance on the alternative fuel issue. There is no fuel that will work well unless its boiling point is below crank case temperature of our engines. Period. You will have to prove me wrong on this with facts, tests, and dyno sheets including BSFC figures before you will change my mind.

Good candidates:
Kerosene, we already know this.
Napthas, we have had some people elude to it, but no real tests.
Gasoline, I didn't have good luck with it, but that doesn't mean I'm done with it.
Diesel fuel, No.1 is essentially the same as kerosene. No.2 is heavier and approaches the limit of what will be acceptable. Treven's test shows this. Will there be work-arounds? I think so.

Here's my view on lubricating oils. I would rather buy my oil. I don't want to deal with making it. The cheaper the better, but quality is important.

Good candidates:
High quality Castor Oil: Klotz Benol, Maxima Castor 927, Castrol 747. These are modern formulations of castor oil and work when mixed with kerosene above certain temperatures. Some more work needs to be done to see what percentages at what temperatures before separation occurs.

Synthetic two stroke oils: These blend with kerosene and do not separate at low temperatures. A bit on the costly side, but not any more expensive than the above mentioned castor oils.

Motor oil: Plain old engine oil will also work. It was used years ago. The straight grade non-detergent varieties won't have additives to interfere with combustion. The only drawback might be carbon buildup in the engine, and to me the awful smell, synthetics don't smell all that great either. This is probably the cheapest and simplest choice.

Veggie oil: Straight veggie oil is probably not suitable due to its low viscosity. The modified oils may work but we don't really know what the qualities are. There is the drawback that you have to make it yourself, but it seems to be a relatively simple process. To me, this might be an option if we can prove the qualities of the produced oil.

Additives:
Ether: Obvious, this makes our engines work very well. Unfortunately it's hard to get and expensive. It’s high vapor pressure means some of it escapes the fuel mix every time the fuel bottle is opened.

DII: The nitrates or peroxides that improve combustion. There are many choices in the grand scheme of things but only, a few which are readily available. Real testing is hard to accomplish in my opinion.

Soot Reduction: It's not something that we really discussed but it came up with bio fuels and oils. Bio fuels and oils seem to have a cleaning effect in our engines. If these things do not work out in the fuel mixes we may need to add cleaners to keep the engines clean. I think regular automotive additives will do well here, but it still needs investigation. Some two stroke oils may already have ingredients that help reduce deposits in the combustion chamber.