RCU Forums - View Single Post - Official HPI MT2 Thread
View Single Post
Old 09-29-2006 | 04:54 PM
  #7810  
Fieroboy
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Lowell, MA
Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

I'm with ya on this as I'm just a casual RC'r and really don't bash or beat the hell out off my truck, GPM or Alloy is fine for me especially on the wallet. Billet is great... if you decide to jump the Grand Canyon.
ORIGINAL: Joebaby35

Hello all,

I just finished updating myself with the last 10 pages of this forum and would like to throw my 2 cents in. First off I drive all my RC cars and trucks very hard but I do maintain them excellently. If there are any weak points in my truck I will find them. I would like to comment on 2 things I read in the last few pages, one of them is the C Hubs.

I have always had problems with the stock plastic C hubs stripping on all my MT and MT2's so I spend $15 shipped on Ebay for a pair of aluminum C Hubs on 2 separate occasions, I think the ones I got are made by GMP and are definitely not billet, though I am confident that I will never have a problem with these front hubs ever again. IMO I think it is worth it to buy the inexpensive C Hubs and put the money saved into something else on the truck, rather than spending more then double the amount on the billet C Hubs just to have stronger hubs that don’t need to be that strong. Lets face it the truck came with PLASTIC C Hubs that will not hold up the slightest punishment without having problems and many people out there run the stock plastic hubs for a while without problems. I think it is overkill to limit your self to the billet C Hubs only. I am motivated to write this to inform the RC New comers not to be afraid of buying the cheaper hubs and save the extra money for other things needed on the truck. Don't get me wrong I know billet is much stronger and better quality and if I had deep pockets I would probably by the billet hubs instead but I don't.

The second thing I would like to comment on is the lightened flywheel.
If by putting on a lightened flywheel makes you engine idle poorly you engine is not tuned correctly. I ran both the stock heavy flywheels and lightened flywheels on all my engine which include the stock HPI .15 and .18ss, Picco .12 and .15, and my OS .18 CV-r without any idle problems. I notice the best results on the under powered HPI .15, I got more bottom end by putting on lightened FW and did not loose any top end speed. IMO by installing the lightened FW you have everything to gain and nothing to loose. For anyone thinking about installing one on the car or truck GO FOR IT. Heavy flywheels are designed for 2wd Stadium trucks that need the power and torque to be toned down and more liner to prevent wheel spin and get better traction, These heavy flywheels are usually installed on trucks like the RC10GT and Losi XXNT to name a few.

Sorry about the long post but it’s not often I get to contribute.

I would hate to discourage the less experienced drivers from trying new things because they read in this forum not to run cheaper hubs or lightened flywheels when they can only benefit from doing so. There is a lot of great advise in this forum but there is also strongly imposed opinions here as well. I am not attacking anyone so please nobody take this personal and get off topic to attack me. I am just trying to advise the less experience modelers not to be discouraged by what is sometimes written in this forum and be open minded to everything.