Well, first, Koverall is othing but a lightweight ceconite, or a woven Dacron polyester fabric. As such, it is heat shrinkable, and is very strong. If you have the fabric pulled tight when you begin to apply the heat, you can crush a weak structure. Having said that, I make sure that the surface that is to be covered is sanded extremely smooth, and cleaned to perfection. I use paper towells saturated with isopropyl alcahol. Some reccomend that you use a tack rag to remove the dust, but I have found that using these rags tends to leave a waxy residue behing, and that is not conducive to getting a decent bond when applying the covering.

First, I apply 2-3 coats of Nitrate dope to the entire structure. I sand the last coat with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I then cut the material (make sure that the weave runs parrallel with the structure) I attach the material to the doped structure with lacquer thinner. Use a single edge razor blade to trim to your satisfaction (an xacto knife will not hold it's edge as well as a single edge razor blade) next dope the entire perimeter of the structure, rubbing the cloth down with the ball of your finger. Give the doped perimeter time to dry prior to application of heat. You can do the top and bottom of the wing panel as one piece if you wish, doing the bottom of the wing, and wrapping around the leading edge, and finishing at the trailing edge of the top surface. This method gives the best appearance, since you do not have a seam at the leading edge.

Once the dope is dry, you should use a monokote iron adjusted to medium high heat, and begin to shrink the fabric. Do not use a heat gun until you are experienced, since you can overheat the fabric, and cause the fibers to elongate. This will leave you with a very baggy surface that will never shrink again. Once you have the fabric shrunk taut, begin to apply nitrate dope thinned 50/50 with lacquer thinner. Brush on at least 3 coats, and check for pin holes. Hold the surface up to a lamp, and if you have pin holes, you will be able to see them easily.

Once you have the surface filled with the dope, you should sand it smooth using 600 grit paper. Then I use automotive primer to give a opaque base to do the final color. Add the color of your choice, and then color sand with 1500 or 2000 grit wet or dry paper (wet) until you get a uniform smooth finish. Use rubbing compound and polish to get the sheen that you desire. Done properly, the surface (over solid wood) will have the appearance of finished metal, and the finish over the open bays will have the appearance wo slick finished plastic with a hint of weave showing. Here is a photo of a WACO that I am in the process of completing. Pic taken last evening. Best of luck,

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1