Nice explaination with a couple of exceptions. When cutting the fabric, apply a strip of dope where the cut is to be made. Allow it to dry and the cut will be crisp with no "frizzies". You need to calibrate your iron to 250F and 350F to shrink the fabric. The Coverite iron with the thermometer on the dial is the best but any iron can be calibrated. Shrink it first to 250 then 350.

I would NOT use the automotive primer as it interupts the process. The reason you paint nitrate dope on the fabric is to chemically bond the paint to the fabric so the butyrate will attach to the nitrate. With the automotive primer in between, it's useless to use nitrate. You could have filled the weave with anything. Remember , all dope shrinks and it shrinks for its entire life. If you ever have dope crack or peel off, this is why. Also, automotive primer is intended to be used on metal with out flexing (hopefully). It could cause what we call "Ringworm" in the full scale world. When you handle the aircraft on the open structure it cracks the primer and looks like ringworm.

You didn't address finishing tapes or pinked tapes as the modelers call them. If you want to apply the pinked tapes, they go on after the nitrate dope is applied and just before the butyrate. If you put them on after the first coat as we normally do with the Stits process they will almost go away by the tenth coat of nitrate. So, we prefer to apply them just before the butyrate to make them stand out a little more. Atfer the tapes are applied, spray the entire airframe once more to fill the weave of the tapes. Now you're are ready for silver.

For a referance on covering a model take a look at: http://www.stits.com/RC_Model_instructions