I would invest in the Smart Fly equalizer for your elevator servos. If you use Hitec servos and know someone with a programmer, you can use a HD Y-Harness though. Or you can use the equalizer as the Y-Harness.

For batteries, use either 4.8 volt or 6 volt packs. Some people use 5 cell, some use 4 and if you stick with NiCd or NiMH, you won't need a regulator. You need at least 1650 maH and I would probably go with either a large single pack or two smaller packs if you want redundancy. I personally like NiCd's over NiMH, but that's just me. I have a NiMH pack in my TX, so that shows you how strong my convictions are. I however use Li-ion for receiver and ignition packs. And for the ignition pack, just get a good 4.8 volt pack. I'm running Li-ion on my ignition because I have a 3W and so I don't need a regulator. Once again, chemistry is your decision.

I do not run noise reducers on my extensions. I have the servo's hooked up to them directly with shrink wrap around the connectors and then they are plugged into the receiver.

I drilled a small hole in the bottom of my fuse (where there was wood) and just ran the antennae out the bottom to the back. I have it secured with blenderm, but you could also use a small piece of covering. Some people run them in a tube inside the fuse.

I'd forget the choke servo since it is extra weight and just use the optical kill switch. You can use both if you like as long as you have enough open channels. I think the only advantage of the stock muffler over the pitts would less weight. They both should allow the engine to turn about the same RPMs. Probably the best mount for the BME 50 is the H9 mount, but people have also used the GP mount. I prefer metal for gas engines and I attached pictures.

Check this place out (http://www.radiosouthrc.com/) for paint that you can airbrush on. The matches aren't always perfect, but neither is the stuff you get from the covering manufacturers.