On the bottom end, a small block of maple was drilled out to go over the CF tube, and ca'd in place. Then I drilled and tapped for an alluminum bolt to serve as axle. Worked extremely well and has been durable. Removed approximately 75 grams of steel strut but added about 20 of CF, maple blocks and alluminum bolts. And it was pretty cheap to boot. CF tubing in this size is far stiffer than steel or titanium particularly at longer length required for large prop clearance. No more rubber ducky effect in cross wind.
One thing I have found with CF tubing is that mounted at an angle, as if one installed it on a fuse, they won't hold up well unless supported internally with some carbon rod. Work particularly well when mounted vertically as in a retractable assembly
MattK
ORIGINAL: MTK
Depends on the judges unfortunately. No matter how hard we try to get every one on the same page, same chapter, same book,..... individual interpretations and scoring habits persist. It's much better than it used to be but we still have quite aways to go
MattK
PS- retracts would be a cinch to build long legged. Cut the steel strut about 1" below the coil and epoxy a .24 x .16" carbon tube in place. Torsional strength can be had with a length of 1000 carbon roving ca'd in place, spiral wound around the carbon strut. You will remove about 2 ozs of steel weight from them, making them comparable in weight to the lightest fixed gear. I've done it and it works fine. The bonus is improved or cleaner air flow under the stab, particularly when using a gear door. QED
ORIGINAL: patrnflyr
Gee, I wonder if retracts would affect judging?
