RE: Lanier Extra 300s 1/4 scale kit
Superworm,
Sanding down F1 former to match the CW1 former is exactly what I have been contemplating about. I just want to make sure I am chosing the right route on this one as there is no turning back when starting to sand F1. Also, considering my limited building experience I am afraid to make visable mistakes. However I agree with you that this way is probably the best way of solving the problem and to get a nice end result. Another easier, but much less satisfactory, way could be to sand a transition on the hatch so it meets the cowl without a rising ridge. A third way would be to not let the hatch overlap F1 former, but instead rest on H1 former alone, wich would then be the very front end of the hatch. This last option is going to be flush with the rest of the front top part of the fuz but have less strenght compered to the way you suggested.
Uncertain if the instructions are correct written, meaning that there could be a chance that the designer actually ment that the hatch would end at H1 former and not overlap F1. This as the H1 is supposed to be glued together with the hatch, and the hight of H1 together with the hatch has the same hight as the F1 former, hence giving a flush front fuz. However, if I would follow the instructions there is no way I could glue H1 former together with the hatch and let the hatch overlap F1 former in the same time.
Looking at the attached piture, taken from above and rear looking forward. You can see that the H1 former, front rest/end of the hatch, is actually lower than the F1 former, and when putting the hatch ontop of H1 the fuz is then flush. I hope you understand what I am trying to explain.