Hi Doug.

You didn't say anything about the size/scale of the a/c you're building, and that could have an effect on the "how-to".

The stock canopy on the -B/C was built up with two hinged sections. The upper (curved) portion hinged up and over to the right side (as seen from the seat), and the left-hand flat (side) portion hinged down to lay on the side of the fuse. These joints were, as I recall, both done with piano hinges, and depending on the size of your model, might be the best way to achieve the effect that you're after. In any case, the greater problem, I suspect, will be the latching of the two pieces to each other and to the canopy's main frame. I'd suggest some sort of sliding pin latch, but would have to worry it through, if I were doing it. I don't recall the specific procedure to close the prototype's canopy, but I believe that the side panel was lifted up and latched before the top portion, if that helps any.

If your model is of a smaller scale which would preclude piano hinges, I'd look at some sort of tape hinge as a possibility. How often do you expect to open/close this canopy?

Finally, unless you're modeling a specifc a/c, I'd give serious consideration to the "field modification" that was made to many of the -Bs and -Cs in the Eruopean theatre...the addition of a "Malcom hood". This was a precursor to the bubble canopy in many ways. Basically, it was a sliding one-piece piece of Perspex (Plexiglas) that had been "liberated" from the Spitfires. It provided a cleaner field of view (important when you're trying to see a minute speck in the sky, and it's invariably going to be hiding behind your canopy frame until within range!), as well as allowing the pilot to "lean over the side" a bit, and see a bit more clearly behind his own tail. Of course, in order to build such a canopy, you'll be back to having to resolve the "where-to-get-it" problem, since I've never seen anyone offering one in a kit or as an after-market add-on.

HTH

<Jack>
AMA 7897