Bentgear; Light is right, for flying. It sounds like your planes are lots of fun to fly.

My electric planes aren't real light, at 20 and 19 ounces per square foot of wing area, but they can "hang" real well in stall turns and still roll and snap quickly.

I'm still learning how to build light. When I showed my 8-ounce wing to a friend who builds free flight, he said "Man, that's heavy."

My M2-E must be overbuilt, 'cause I dumped it recently when a guy stepped out on the runway as I was landing (club pres, wouldn't you know).

I was just ready to flare out, too slow for a touch 'n go, when I see this large shape moving towards the spot where I'll be landing. So I plulled up, opened the throttle and applied too much left rudder.

The wingtip hit first, and the forward half of the fuselage (with the weight of the battery) kept going. There were no marks on the spinner or prop, which indicates that the fuse snapped off purely from the wingtip impact, neatly in half at the back of the wing saddle. The wing and tail stayed together, undamaged.

It was really easy to glue it back together. The wingtip required only a patch of fabric, and I added a 1/64 ply skin to the inside of the saddle bay to reinforce it. The fuselage sides are 1/8 balsa with a 1/64 ply skin on the outside, with triangular cut-outs aft of the saddle.

The wing that transferred that impact with sufficient force to snap the fuselage has only 1/4-square balsa spars, but they have 1/16-inch balsa shear webs and 1/4-inch carbon-fiber tape on top and bottom. I think I could stand on the wing between two chairs.

Selcuk; Shape isn't that important. Bentgear reported above that his tipplets extend all the way around the wing. I've seen some like that on a full-scale crop-duster.

The ones on my old stick were made triangular because they could be positioned above, below, or centered on the wingtip. The way I designed those on my M3-E was to lay a straight-edge tangent to the curve of the bottom leading edge, and angle it downward so that the distance from the trailing edge to the tip of the plate (vertically) is slightly more than the maximum thickness of the wing.

There's an old saying among boat designers that if it looks right, it probably is. Don't worry, just cut 'em out and stick 'em on there. If you make them of 1/8-inch balsa, they're sacrifical anyway. Just be sure they line up fore 'n aft. You don't want any side loads on them.

Don't expect too much improvement, especially with a tapered wing, where the chord at the tip is small. The wings on bentgear's and my planes have straight wings so the tip chord is the same as the root. If the wing on your Learjet is scale, it was not designed with model speeds in mind.