Hey, Balsa Bum; If you put the tipplets on before you cover the wing, they are a pain, too. The easiest way I know is to place 2-56 blind nuts from inside the tip rib, before you cover the wing. Then cover (or paint) the tipplets and screw them on! Easy to repair/replace, too.

That's the way I did them on my old stick (see link to photo, above). On my new electric-powered M3-E I added the plates first and then covered the wing. There was only a 1/4-inch rib cap on which to anchor the bottom covering, so I applied "slow" Zap to that surface and used the iron to attach it there first.

I've experimented with this method when it's not possible to wrap the covering around an edge. You must use the iron as soon as you apply the glue. My test allowing the glue to dry first and then applying the iron resulted in the covering coming loose, as the color/adhesive melted. Applying the glue and heat simultaneously seems to work. Otherwise, you cannot apply the covering to an "inside" corner in the normal way and expect it to stay when you shrink it.

Since the plate on my M3-E is flush with the top wing surface, it was no problem to wrap the top covering material over the outside of the plate.

Ben; I could certainly tell the difference between having the plates above and below the wing on my "Sweet" stick. As you can tell by the photo, they were large enough for the experiment.

There's no doubt they increase the roll rate, too. My M3-E rolls so fast I may never try the high rate setting. About one-half second.