Nose ring former

I thought I'd add a little detail to using a nose ring former. I installed one in my current plane after the fact, and it was a piece of cake. The key here is 80 grit sandpaper and pateince.

If you're installing one from the start, here's how.

First line up your nose ring with the tabs on the former. This first picture isn't absolutely accurate, you need to move the holes closer to the solid side of the former. Not TOO much, but a little.

Mark and drill your holes, and mount the nose ring to the former.

TIP: If you're using a YS engine and a central hobbies nose ring, the nose ring is too tight!!!!! Use a dremel sanding drum and carefully remove some of the O ring until it is a slip fit on the front of the engine. It should be snug, but you should be able to slide it on and off without using power tools!!! When I first installed mine, I noticed a LOT of vibration. I killed 2 sets of servos, a wing adjuster, my wing and stab hard points and a few other things before I had a long talk with Merle Hyde and came to the conclusion that my nose ring was too tight, and just transferring vibration through the nose ring former directly into the air frame. After loosening it up a bit, it's SMOOOOOOTH and no detectable wear on anything. This is important guys.

Mount the engine to the firewall, and install the nose ring and former on the engine itself. The distance from the thrust washer to the former should be 6 3/8" or very close to it. Use spacers behind the engine mount if you have to. Trim 3/8" from the back of the cowl (the mounting flange). Clean the cowl with soap and water, acetone, alcohol, wax remover, throw everything at it. This mold release is pretty aggressive, so you have to get it ALL off. Once it's clean, rough up the mounting areas with 80 grit paper and clean again.

Using the tips I showed earlier in this thread, sand a lip on the front flange of the fuselage to accept the cowl flush. Now install your cowl, and check the fit. Suprise! Sanding time.

All you do from here is use 80 grit paper on a solid or 3m curved type sanding block and remove material from the nose ring former until it aligns in the center.

Use your spinner backplate to get your cowl lined up. Be careful to mate the former as far forward as it will go without getting into the thrust washer. The further back it is, the more you get into the funky curve of the cowl cheeks. So, keep it forward. When you have a good idea of where the former will be glued, remove the cowl and rough up the are a with 80 grit paper, and clean with acetone.

When you're satisfied with the fit (you should be even around the spinner and have about 1/16" of clearance) it's time to glue it on. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and light micro balloons (don't use a lot, jut enough to turn it white and thicken it slightly). Now apply a bead around the mounting flange of the cowl and a small but thick bead on the edge of the nose ring former. Put everything in place and use tape to secure it. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel. Walk away and let it cure before removing anything.

After at least a 3-4 hour cure, remove the engine. Cut some small strips of either 4 ounce carbon or glass and glass in the former. Let it overlap, just get a good nice seamless bond at the corner where the former meets the cowl. This will spread the stress and keep your cowl in one piece.

When everything is cured overnight, trim and you're done.