OK, you asked for it. Note that I'm not a helicopter engineer and there is no guarantee that this will give you the results that you want. If you don't mind that the heli is more responsive and climbs better, you'll be happy. If you don't mind that the heli will move with less stick, you'll be happy. The lightweight flybar may require that you reset the trim adjust - the upper rotor turns more easily and requires less power. And if you make the change I'd really like to know how this mod works for you. Other guys have other good mods. This works for me. It's what I fly. There has been a flurry of activity on my email with guys asking for my thoughts on how this thing works and the changes I've made. It's sort of flattering, and I know that my mods work for me, but I NEED feedback. Anyhow, here ya go. Take your time, good luck and enjoy your heli.

THE MOD: If you are able to get a good hover, you don't need the stock flybar weight. Stick a tiny screwdriver or wire down between the brass weight and the rubber boot in the flybar end weight. Pop the brass thing out. Don't loose it. Try to hover. If you're OK with it that way, you should see far less blade damage. Lighter Flybar = Less Clack.
Then, if all goes well, get more serious.
With the weights out of the rubber things, slide the rubbers up onto the flybar and cut the flybar ends off. A Dremmel works great for that. Slide the rubber things off the ends of the flybar rods.
Go to the local hobby shop and get a set of locking collars. They are about 3/16 in diameter, about a quarter inch long with a hole in the center for a 1/16 inch wire. And they have a setscrew to lock them on.
I started with two weights on each end. That worked well so I changed to one collar on each end and one halfway between the end and the center on each side. When I got good enough to hover that way, I went to just one collar on each flybar rod, located at about 1 1/2 inch from the outboard end on each side. That's pretty lightweight and it's a handful, but it rocks. I am not only using about 36% of the original weight, the weigh is spinning in a smaller circle.
The response is very good. The tendency of the heli to go 20 feet, then stop is far less than it was.
And there is NO MORE BLADE CLACK!

Because my flybar is so light, I don't think that it can force the blades to clack. You will find that the hover is just a bit more work with just one collar on each end of the flybar, and the heli is a bit less stable, but I'm OK with it and I'm not a very good pilot. With two collars on each end it hovers just like stock. If you go a step at a time, you'll find a place where you are comfortable. The lighter the flybar the less it fights the heli. That seems to be a good thing. NOTE: If you get TBE, check for flash on the upper blade linkage ball. That plastic flash on the ball can make the link stick and the flybar MUST move with no friction.

As near as I can tell, the stock flybar weights are 2.326 grams EACH (rubber and brass insert combined). I don't have a scale that weighs that close, but I have a cool 3D cad system here, so I created a model of the rubber part, and the brass part, inserted the brass into the rubber and analyzed the whole thing. That's where the weight came from. If you have a better weight let me know.
I did the same thing for a collar. I got .8305 gram each.
Two 2 collars equals 1.661 gm.
Two of the factory weight assemblies equals 4.652 gm.
I did shorten my flybar rods to 3 3/8" (measuring just the exposed metal part).