RE: blade clack?
Thanks for the reply.
One thing that you absolutely have to have is VERY loose flybar connection. ANY friction in that flybar assembly will cause TBE with that new setup on top. And the lighter the flybar the more sensitive it is to TBE. But as your read, TBE can be controlled. You'll know when you get it right. The devil's in the details. But it's worth it, so scrape the flash off the link balls and make sure there is no bind anywhere.
Two collars at the end of each rod will hover like a stock heli, but it will have better performance. When you are ready to advance, leave one collar on the outer ends and move the inner collar steadily inboard an inch at a time until it's all you can stand. When you can fly that, loose the second collar and start moving the remaining collar toward the center a little at a time. And MEASURE the locations so both ends are exactly the same. Any imbalance will cause TBE. But you read about that, right? And you probably don't want to move the linkage to an outer hole in the servo arm.
Some will say you can't invert a CX/2.
Wrong.
Truth is that you can't FLY it inverted.
And upside down is expensive.