For those that care, and are (no expense spared) tied into finding the best motor driven/fixed pitch tail solution.....this is a very cool thread. lot_tobe_learned........
thanks for doing all the hard work.
np and thanks for your support futura. i figured if nobody else is going to do it i might as well. like i said, everything r/c around my house finds a happy home, including the small feigao and park 250 outrunner (saw a losi micro-T running the short can feigao and lipos, thinking about it...).
Has anyone used the 5800kv with the stock geared setup and trimmed blade?
Do you think the 5800 kv 12 x 30 is worth a try or should i order the 5300kv?
i haven't tested a 5800kV motor, but if it's not possible to exchange your motor it might be worth giving a shot since my 5300kV is running as cool as it is. 5800kV may give more raw piro power, but i'm sure the torque of the 5300kV is better for response time (which i've found is a high priority). the way feigao's come packaged anyways, you could give it a brief test and exchange it without anyone noticing (hard to prove if mine were slightly used or not when i bought them as new at any rate).
if you decide to give your 5800kV a go, i'd start with a smaller prop than i'm using and maybe also crank the start power and advance down a bit. if you get good results and the motor isn't smoking, you can gradually ramp up the advance/start current/prop size to whatever works best without smoking or glitching.
I have seen somwhere the combination of a ziner diode and resister to bring down the voltage to the tail motor when using higher voltage lippo batteries.
i don't recommend the zener mod, as it reduces efficiency and performance. the stock n-20 motors are far from capable of reliable operation with 3S lipos. imo, if you're looking for a low budget improvement to your tail whether it's for performance or reliability with 3S packs, i'd go with a gws DD tail. it's well worth the $$$, especially if you stick with the original tail mount (which imo is better than the gws fin anyways). if you're using 3S batteries, just make sure you get the version with an "X" in the part number (helifever has them).
finally, my neighbor and i finally got the chance to film each other flying. my neighbor put the camera down early, so most of the video will be of my warming up & trimming. anyways, within the limits of amateur cameramen, you can see how well the tail holds through punchouts/sideways... as well as how good those sm-22 servos hold altitude... and even a slightly exciting radio glitch that easily could've totalled my precious heli. speed and accelleration were limited because we were flying surrounded by large trees & powerlines near a busy street. next time we'll get out to a park or something. anyways, it'll be at least 5hours before the video is done processing (my fastest PC is a dinosaur: 2.6GHz-P4/512MB-PC800/ATA100-RAID-0)
btw, later during that flight after i tuned in my max pitch (after the cameraman ran for cover), near the bottom of my full collective punchouts i heard a clicking sound. i was sure it was my gears slipping, but both of my meshes were fine and tight after landing. then i thought it must've been the himax's massive torque flexing the frame, which was making the gear mesh change enough during punchouts that the pinion skips a tooth once in a while. after looking closer, i found it was the downward g-force that was pulling the canopy into the gear, making it the canopy click (slight chaffing on the canopy near the gear is evidence of this). now that's some power!!!