Just want to clear up a few misconceptions here.

1. You cannot silver solder with an electric soldering iron. Any true silver solder has a melting point between 800F and just over 1200F (which is for pure silver). I don't know of any electirc iron that will reach those temps.

2. Flux ain't always flux. Acid based fluxes, usually Zinc or Ammonium Chloride, will burn long before you can melt silver solder and the parts will never bond. It's good for lead/tin solders (for those of you who remember the good old days of 50/50 or even 60/40) and it will also work with most lead-free plumbing solders commonly on the market. Borax is used in silver soldering, no to get the solder to stick, but to prevent oxides from forming on the base metals. Same as the coating on stick-arc welding rods (SMAW) or flux core welding electrode (FCAW).

3. What most people here call "silver soldering" is "soft soldering" like what a plumber does or used it electrical connections. I've even seen kit construction manuals call it "Silver soldering".

4. You can silver sodler with a propane torch, as long as the pieces are relatively small and you have a big enough tip. Usually, you'll have to get the base metal red hot. If your torch will do that, the silver sodler should melt.

5. If you are soft soldering and use an acid flux, make sure you clean it VERY well. It will corrode the base metal something fierce. It will also absolutely destroy any wood it soaks into.

6. Silver soldering is NOT reccomended for landing gear wires as you'll ruin the temper and have no way to put it back in. In fact, I would be hard-pressed to think of any application for silver soldering in this hobby, with the possibilty of custom made gasoline mufflers

Not trying to pick on anyone, just trying to get accurate information out.

Ed