I thin my latex with water only. I have found (the hard way [] ) that windshield washer fluid tends to tint the light colors.

I have had my best luck at 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 I don't get the coverage and over 30 psi the paint starts to "pit".

I add 1 1/2 caps of Flotrol per 1 quart of UNDILUTED latex.

Flat latex takes an average of 7 - 10 days to "cure" (not leave any fingerprints when a finger is pressed firmly on a hard area of the plane. I check on the cowl area ). Semi-gloss and gloss latex take 14 - 21 days to cure. I normally shoot a flat latex and then determine the amount of "shine" I want with the clear coat.

Water base polyurethane is fuel RESISTANT with the FOLLOWING CAVEATS: 1. Do not expose the paint to fuel residue for a MINIMUM of 7 days. 2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane for over 4 hours. After 4 hours the residue begins to soften the poly. The water base poly will not yellow or turn white. For a more resistant clear coat I use Krylon ACRYLIC clear (Gloss or Satin work fine ). I strongly suggest letting the paint cure and applying all your decals and trim painting prior to clear coating.

Latex is typically dry to the touch in 1 hour or less. You can recoat it then. For masking tape I strongly suggest 3M blue masking tape. The one you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". It has a paper appearance and on the side of the wrapper is an adhesive index. You want the 2 dot adhesive. This adheres reasonably well, but will not pull up fresh paint underneath it.

Latex is going to require several coats to cover (it goes on thin, but is still one of the lightest paints out there ). FWIW - put a base coat of silver (2nd choice is white ) before shooting yellow . The yellow will cover with less coats and have a "truer" color.

Couple of other things - If you mess up, latex can usually be removed (up to about 6 hours ) with a wet cloth. DO NOT TRY TO SAND LATEX, it will "ball" up on you.

Hope this helps.