Glue -- each glue has its strong points and you should different types for different things.

CA -- On laser cut stuff that is tight, I use CA. A good laser cut wing glued with CA can be build in a night!

Alphatic resin (Wood glue) is very strong and can be sanded. It takes time to cure and you need to use pins to keep things stable. I use this type where I need something a little stronger than CA can give but where epoxy is not needed.

Gorrilla Glue -- The glue is very strong and also sands pretty good. It expands and foams a little while curing. This type is very popular for wing skins where you need some time to get things down and you get the benefit of having it expand to fill little gaps.

Epoxy -- mostly 30 minute (for strength) but 5/6 minute ok for little things where you need a quicker bond and strength is secondary.

Sillicone -- (Bathroom caulking) is great for sealing around fuel tubes, adhering fuel tanks. Use is sparingly as it is heavy.

White Glue (Elmers) -- Great for skins and sheeting. Paint it on -- wait 30 minutes for it to get tacky, then iron on your sheeting with your irons hottest temperature.

Rubber Cement -- Ideal for bonding paper templates to balsa for cutting. Also works good to bond sand paper to blocks for sanding.

Loctite -- Any threaded hardware that needs to be secured, use thread locker (Blue is removable, Red is permenent).

Formula 560 -- A flexible clear glue designed for things like canopies.

Sigment/Ambroids -- Great for balsa -- a little strong on vapors -- sand good and is faster than Alphatic resins.

Other Stuff with glues -- Glass micro-ballons are a must for lightening up epoxies for things like fillets. Glass ballons will speed the cure time significantly so I usually only use 30 minute epoxy with them.

Polyester Resin -- Very noxtious, however, very very good at creating hard fillers when adding Micro-ballons. Sands much easier than epoxy.

Polycrylic -- Water based urethane very good for glassing or sealing koverall or solartex without the fumes of dope.