Without having read the article referred to earlier, here's how I've been doing it for about 45 years:

1. After the model is completed, give the entire framework (anywhere the covering will touch) 2 coats of clear butyrate dope (SIG, Aerogloss, or whatever - do NOT mix brands). Very lightly sand with very fine sandpaper, then give one more coat of clear and let it dry.

2. You can use silk, "silron" (blend of silk and nylon), "silray" (blend of silk and rayon), and I think there were a few others but can't remember what they were off the top of my head. Cut fabric so you have about 1" extra material all around the area to be covered. Lay the piece over the area to be covered and spray on a mist of water until the material is completely wet. (I used to use my Mom's Windex bottle filled with water many years ago, but any spray bottle will do). The material will cling to the surface you are covering. Smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles with your fingers, keeping the material wet, but not dripping.

3. While the material is still wet, take clear dope that is thinned 50-50 (clear butyrate dope and dope thinner) and brush through the wet fabric all around the outside of the area you are covering (whether it's "open framework" or a sheeted balsa surface). Immediately rub the dope in (through the fabric) with your fingers so it softens and bonds to the intial coats of clear dope under the fabric that were appled to the framework or sheeting (in the first step). Allow this to dry. You'll notice that as it dries, the covering, which was wet from the water you sprayed on, also dries and the fabric shrinks at the same time, giving a nice, smooth, tight surface. Once dry, trim off the excess material, and dope down the edges, again using your fingers to smooth down the doped edges. This is real messy and you'll notice how the dope dries on your fingers when smoothing down wet, doped surfaces - you can remove it with a bit of thinner on a rag (or you can "chew" it off your fingers for the next day or so! Did that for many years - maybe that's what's wrong with me - ingesting all that dried dope over the years!)

4. After all covering is applied to the whole model, then you start filling the weave of the fabric. For areas of open framework, using 50-50 dope/thinner, brush on VERY THIN coats over the entire surface, being careful not to push the dope through the weave. This would form puddles that will show when dry if too much goes through the weave. You just want to brush the dope on LIGHTLY at first. This is not critical when doping over sheeted balsa areas. As the weave fills, you can push harder (in successive coats) to continue filling until the fabric is completely filled (no more "pin holes" showing).

5. At this point, you will be ready to apply your color coats. This can be done by brushing (with colored dope thinned about 75-25 dope/thinner), or spraying, (again using about 50-50). Paint the lightest colors first, then tape off and paint the darker colors. I like to brush on my filler coats but spray all the colors. Then I shoot a coat of clear over the finished paint scheme to seal everything and to provide a final gloss coat.

Another product I've had good luck with is Dave Brown's "Skyloft" which is a very fine continous filament nylon. The procedure is slightly different in that you soak the pieces of Skyloft you're going to cover with in a pan of water for a few minutes. The difference is that while the silk (and silk blends) shrink while drying (after wetting them), the Skyloft expands when wet, then returns to it's original size when dry. Other than that, the procedure for covering is the same.

If you use straight rayon (or SIG Koverall), you must use Nitrate dope for doping the framework and attaching the fabric to the model. Then you can switch to the butyrate dope for filling and your color scheme. Once you start using the butyrate dope over the nitrate, don't go back to nitrate. You can use butyrate over nitrate but NOT nitrate over butyrate.

None of this is complicated. It just takes a few paragraphs to explain it - it's easier to do it than write the directions! It's a lot slower than ironing on plastic film covering, but it's much more durable and certainly more realistic. This method is exactly like real aircraft were covered for most of the last century, with the exception of using lighter and finer fabrics (like silk) for model planes. It's a perfect finish for your Cub project!