totaly agree, for everyone the more information you can find or get the better
been doing this myself on real cars and Guitars Helmets Choppers,and just about anything that will stay still long enough for me to paint it for almost 30years!! and still "Learning"....
so many Talneted artist out there....i see so much stuff that just "Blows Me Away" !!
because it is different......many do not feel theres are any good??? not true..because it is yours you see as your doing it....but there all Unique in a great way.....
best bet "Experiment with Colors" that is the fun part, Oh, almost forgot
for all those that use Water based paints....please keep in mind they are NOT NON-TOXIC the water based Binder is not TOXIC......the Pigments still are....so keep this in mind and do wear a mask any kind!!
your "Lungs" are the only ones you have!!!
also check out Autoaircolors.com (even see some of our stuff too
)
if buying the Faskolor it's the "Raw" form bought from Cretex the manufacture of this type of paint Cretex is "AutoAir".....so if you buy from autoair you'll save a bunch as well...
as the parma ones are i think 2 ounces??? the AutoAir 8 ounces bottles cost about the same as the "Little" parma bottles.......
and there made to work with AirBrushes...parma gets the Raw base and puts in a bottle and calls it a day.......not to say it is not good??? just not very good to use in Airbrushes....
you would use this in bigger "Air Guns" to cover bigger areas.....
and be sure to use the 4300 series reducer...
4003 Auto Air Reducer - Binder Use with smaller sized airbrushes and for operating at reduced pressures. Reducer is a lower viscosity binder made to thin Auto Air Colors with a lesser volume of binder needed than thinning with Transparent Base would require.
as some may have noticed having to keep "bumping Up the Air Pressure" with the parma stuff...
because it's like a "Thick MilkShake" this was not designed to be used in airbrushes with tips of .5 or smaller....example most of the Iwata's used by most Automotive guys there tips are .35 and for the Custom Microns wow you dont even want to know....
many will use "Windex" as a reducer??? well..it is ok??? will work but you'll never catch a Automotive painter using it....it is like playing russian roulett with th Binding "Properties" of the paint itself....if you do and feel that is the only thing that works regardless what the "Professionals Say" be sure to use a Hair dryer as hot as it can take it to be sure it "Cures"
not the best thing IR heaters are best but....that is the best recommendation
if you "Have To use Windex" (or feel the pros do not know what there talking about)
for carbon fiber??
just about anything will work to get the pattern...
Oh, also get a what they call is a "Color Wheel" this will help to make some colors...
just about any automotive "Retailer" will hae one....
sometimes we'll use even small pieces of "Window Screen"........
the drywall tape will work real good too......
now depending on the way you want it to look???
with R/C carbon fiber look...(areospace Carbon fiber looks alot different)
but hit usually with a black or dark charcoal first....then a "Silver" or lighter grey..
but hey i hope some of this canhelp everyone........
also if anyone has any questions let us know too at:
[email protected]
or visit us at RGXRacing.com